Hola Amigos,
July 31
I departed Conoa Quebrada and drove to Fortaleza where I intended to spend
the night and meeting Tacios's friend. The phone number I was given did not
work. It was only noon and I felt like riding so I rode on to Sobral. The
city of Sobral was hot and dirty. I filled up my motorcycle with gas and
learned the best hotel was located 15 miles out side of town in the
mountains. I had been riding all day in 80 degree tempiture, no clouds and
not rain. It was a pleasant ride up the mountain to the Ytacaranha Hotel.
As I was riding up the mountain I pass at least 100 small motos of between
125cc and 250cc. Most had two passengers, a male driver about 18 years old
and a female rider of about 16. They all wore shorts, tank tops and a
helmet. I looked out of place with tall riding boots, heavy riding jacket,
pants and a full helmet. Obviously the mountain was a very popular place
with the young. The Ytacaranha had a five star rating but I assure you
four of the five stars had faded. The best thing about the hotel was it's
location in the beautiful mountains and cool tempeture.
August 1
Rode 247 miles in 80 degree tempeture, clear sly on excellent road to
Teresina. I arrived about 1 PM. I wanted to ride on to Santa Ines but I
had been informed the road ahead was full of pot holes and would take five
more hours and mean I would arrive in the dark. I decided to stay in Santa
Ines at the Poty Hotel for only $49 US.
August 2
Rode 237 miles to Santa Ines. It was now becoming difficult to find high
octane gas. Twice today I had to fill my tank with regular. I must say my
BMW Dakar runs surprisingly well on what the Brazilian's call common gas.
I had made a wise decision stopping at Teresina the previous day. The pot
holes were the worst I had ridden. In fact on several occasions there was
no asphalt road for hundreds of yards, only dirt of course fill with huge
post holes the size of small craters. It took me three hours to cover 70
miles. Part of the time was stopping to take photo of the terrible roads.
Upon arriving in Santa Ines, I asked two people in town what hotel was the
best. I received two different recommendations. I rode to both hotels.
The first hotel was a total dump with graffiti written all over the out
side. The second Hotel Socic was very nice and cost me only $40 which of
course including breakfast.
August 3
Rode 366 miles to Belem. The road was good except for a few pots holes. The
tempeture is getting warmer, now 85 degrees. Again no rain, I am beginning
to think it never rains in the Amazon.
I hired a cab drive to lead me to the Hilton Hotel. He charged me $10 for
his services. Smart move on my part, I arrived in town during heavy
traffic, he led me to the five star Hilton Hotel taking the back roads. I
would have spent hours trying to find the hotel on my own. The Hilton is
expensive at $192 per night. It has a pool, wight room, bar and excellent
service.
August 4
I contacted Rose Angelia who speaks English and Portugues by phone. She
agreed to pick me up at the hotel in her car, drive me to the dock, find me
a ship to take me from Belem to Manaus, drive me to the market so I could
purchase a hammock and return me to the hotel. The total cost was $35. We
found two boats that were leaving the next day at 6 PM. After inspecting
both ships I decided on the smaller Cisne Branco. I meet the captain and we
agreed on a price of $327 US. I would receive Suite #14, with air
conditioning, private both and no room mate (most suites are rented to two
people) plus transporting my moto and three meals per day. I paid the
captain cash. Credit cards are not accepted.
After departing the dock I purchased my hammock so I could hang out with the
locals on the ship during the day. I also purchased bottled water, canned
sardines, jelly, nuts, soap, toilet paper and candy bars.
August 5
The water level rises and falls with the tide in Belem. I was told to
arrive at 10 AM with my moto because the water level would raise the ship
enough so the dock and loading door on the ship were even. When I arrived
at the dock an individual offered to help me load my moto on to ship. I
assumed he was part of the ships crew. We pushed my moto onto the ship and
then he demanded money. I found out this is common practice at the dock. I
offered him $5 he demanded more and was very assertive. I gave him another
$5 just to get rid of him. Then three others came to me and wanted money, I
refused to pay any more. I tied down my moto and returned to the hotel
since the ship was not leaving until 6 PM.
I arrived backat the ship about 3 PM and met five other people who spoke
English perfectly. We all became friends. They were:
1. Stephanie Zoels from Germany
2. Kathrin Van De Loo from Germany now living in Holland
3. Simon Kutzner from Germany
4. Marcia Mirgel from Germany (Simon and Marcia are a couple)
5. Erin Kilgour from New Zealand
The ship left three hours late due to some major welding.
August 6
Every day is the same on the ship. Breakfast is served at 6, consisting of
roll, cheese, ham, juice, fruit and very sweet coffee. Lunch is served at
noon, consisting of meat, rice, noodles, lettice, tomatoes and juice.
Dinner is served at 5 and is the same as lunch.
My day was spend visiting, reading, napping, playing cards and watching the
river and shore. The Amazon is much different than I had imagined. The
river is very, very wide in some areas and narrow in others. It is not one
river but many, many river flowing in the same direction.
August 7
Two passengers got drunk yesterday and ended up arguing. One of the two
pulled a large knife and began waving it at the other. The captain
intervened and took the knife away. Both passengers removed from the boat
at the next port. So much for trying to decide who was right. Personally,
I was happy to see both passengers removed, they were very irritating to say
the least.
August 8
We arrived at the city and major port of Santarem at 1 PM. After breakfast
my four German friends left the boat for a jungle trip. The ship departed
Santarem at 3 PM after major loading and unloading of cargo. Again 85
degrees and no rain.
August 9
We stopped at a small port this afternoon. I noticed several governmental
inspectors board the ship. They were there for several hours. The captain
of the ship came to me and said he had been instructed by the lead
inspectator, also a captain, that my beautiful moto needed to be placed in
the cargo hole. I protested to no avail. It was either agree or leave the
ship with my moto. The problem with putting my moto in the cargo hole is
that the opening is not large enough for my moto without standing it on end.
We secured my bike with ropes to a wench and lowered it front wheel first
into the cargo hole. We tied it down and no damage was done to my bike.
Miracles do happen. I thanked the crew for their help and gave the captain
and first mate each a bottle of wine which I had brought on board.
August 10
After six day on the river we arrived in Manaus. It was now time to remove
my moto from the cargo bay with out damaging it. It is now 7 PM and dark. I
climbed down into the cargo bay which has no lights. I am handed a light
connected to an extension cord. I fasten the ropes to my moto. I don't
trust anyone to perform this task but me. I connect the wench. Now thing
get very, very exciting. The first made began to lift my moto out of the
cargo bay, my bike is facing straight down, five feet from the floor of the
bay. On board came people from the dock (I will now refer to them a thugs)
who wanted to help unload my moto, of course demanding a tip. The first
mate tells them we do not need anymore help. One of the thugs becomes
extreme argumentative with the first mate. Now yelling begins and the next
thing I see is the first mate who is holding the rope to my bike kick the
thug in the chest. I am extremely worried my moto will be dropped front
wheel first into the cargo bay. The rest of the ships crew become involved
and the thugs are removed and my moto is safe. I thanked the four crew
members for their help, gáve each $10 US (total $40) and departed.
I again used my favorite system of hiring a cab driver to lead me to the
Tropical Hotel. Cost $145 per night. This is a resort. 600 rooms,
swimming pool, multiple bars and restaurants, many shops, travel agent,
internet, archery, tennis, boat trips, zooand more.
When I return home I will post pictures on my web site. I wish you could
all be with me.
Adios,
Steve