KIWI'S, PENGUINS AND ONE INDIAN

GREG FRAZIER

New Zealand By Motorcycle

From: Dr. Gregory W. Frazier

RE: New Zealand

The hardest part about riding motorcycle in New Zealand is getting

there, a twelve- hour non-stop flight from Los Angeles, if you can fly

direct. The next most difficult part is becoming accustomed to riding

on the wrong side of the road. In the last year I'd dodged errant

drivers in South America, been knocked down by a rain deer in Finland

and narrowly missed a ladder lying in the road in Los Angeles. Riding

in the wrong lane in New Zealand was a snoozer. The long flight was

tough.

This was my fourth trip to New Zealand. It is a small country,

about the size of Colorado, with just less than four million people,

most of them on the North Island. While the national symbol is the

kiwi, I seriously doubt they really exist. In all four trips I have

yet to see one, other than on signs, stuffed in museums and in printed

material. The four million residents have managed to hide their

national bird. I did see one about twenty feet tall, but it was

manufactured. A visit to something called The Kiwi House had sounds

and a couple of dark fur balls moving around, but behind the glass

they looked mechanical. One night I stayed with a BMW motorcycle owner

who told me I could hear kiwis in the woods after dark, but a day of

riding thirty miles in sand, two miles up a river and two hundred miles

on pavement and gravel, then knocking back a bottle of wine caused me

to hear nothing after the dinner he served up. The net result is I

have concluded there are no kiwis in New Zealand, that they really

nothing more than a Madison Avenue marketing ploy to get us foreigners

to visit New Zealand.

I was working on a book this trip. One section will include a

description of the better motorcycling roads in New Zealand. That

,research was fun. What was not fun was that while I concluded there

are no kiwis in New Zealand there are millions of possums, up to 40

million. The New Zealand car drivers are very adept a killing these

possums, especially at night when the possums freeze in the car

headlights. Just about the time I would get hooked up in a nice turn

on a better motorcycling road I'd find a whacked possum in the apex of

the curve. One a sad note I learned that while the New Zealanders have

managed to nearly eliminate kiwis from their paradise, they have been

less successful with the possums which are devastating some of their

environment. The drivers have no impact on the population growth of

the possum.

On my previous three trips to New Zealand I had been able to avoid

bungi jumping. I had hoped to on my fourth trip but a serious error in

judgement changed that. Instead I found myself standing 150 feet above

a cold stream tethered to a pretty girl, asking myself why I was being

brainless, again. For those of you who have any thoughts about doing a

bungi jump all I will say is I screamed the whole one hundred and fifty

feet to the water below, then all one hundred feet back up as the bungi

cord tried to rip my legs off the rest of my body. My back still hurts

thinking about it. On the upside was the adrenaline rush, which stayed

with me for the next couple of days. I would also suggest if you try

this do not swill a gallon of beer the night before, then soak up the

buzz the next morning with a large breakfast.

Traveling by motorcycle in New Zealand by motorcycle was

,inexpensive compared to places like Europe. Gas was about twice what

it cost in the USA. Motels were reasonable and camping was cheap. I

carried my tent and sleeping bag but often opted for a small cabin

(bathroom not included) or a backpacker hotel (like a youth hostel).

The campgrounds and backpacker places were good places to meet other

travelers (most foreign and many Germans). I did not cook often on

this portion of my trip because food was cheap, as were well-stocked

grocery stores.

I did not see too many other motorcycle travelers as I was in New

Zealand in March, pretty much after the hordes of tourists had

dwindled. Those I did meet were usually on rental bikes. The

motorcycle tour operators marketing in the USA have usually completed

their program by this time of the year so I did not run across many of

them. I did meet one couple on a tour but they were the only members

in the group.

In Queenstown a German motorcyclist came up to me and introduced

himself. He is working his way around the world with his motorcycle

and had seen me at the Tesch Globetrotter Meeting in Belgium the year

before. He knew I was on my second tour around the world and wanted to

know about some entry requirements in countries he would be entering.

We traded stories and agreed to stay in touch. Typical for a German he

has the rest of his tour completely mapped and planned out. Unlike my

tour, which I call my "leaf in the wind tour," or "try to avoid the

snow tour," or plan/map according to where I will see beach bunnies

with bouncing breasts. Email will keep he and I in touch as I doubt

out paths will cross again, unless it is on my third motorcycle trip

around the world.

Most motorcycle tour groups in New Zealand operate on the South

,Island. While the South Island has the Southern Alps, less people (and

traffic), and large expanses of open space, the North Island I like as

well. I particularly like 90-Mile Beach, the Kari Forests and several

of the roads on the North Island. I guess it is a trade-off of time

and money. If someone only has two weeks to do New Zealand, then the

South Island is probably best. At least a month is needed to do both.

While I was often hot on the North Island, especially in the far

north, I found snow and cold rain on the South Island only days later.

I used a Darien riding suit from Aerostitch both places and found it to

be just fine for the changing weather. However I did long for an

electric vest once or twice on the South Island. I should have known

it would be cold before I went and carried one with me but I forgot

about the penguins.

Penguins like places where it is cool. In Oamaru I discovered a

penguin colony and this is well above Bluff (the southernmost town in

New Zealand). Just after dark each night the penguins swim ashore,

climb a small cliff, cross a road (closed at night) and bunk in some

man-made penguin houses for the night, reversing their trip in the

early morning. I watched these penguins (Blue Penguins) as they made

their way up the small cliff and felt sorry for the one that crashed

when it lost its balance and rolled backwards. It was ok and made the

cliff on the second try. I figured its pink feet were numb from the

cold water, like I was from riding in the same all day. That is a

downside for the South Island, it can be cold.

It was in Oamaru where I met a Harley guy who is a housetrucker.

Housetruckers are people who convert school buses or trucks into

rolling houses and live in them. I saw a great many of these rolling

houses in New Zealand. This guy was a tattoo artist and he organized

,housetrucker meetings (like swap meets) for 40 or more housetruckers,

all being arts and crafts people. They move from town to town, usually

spending a week in one place. He pulled his Harley behind the bus

stowed inside a van. Two pit bull dogs guarded the house/bike/van when

he was not around. He invited me to travel with his group for a month,

an invitation I may take up in the future. As I still have my

converted school bus these housetruckers and I would have a lot to

converse about. This Harley guy, with cell phone and giant truck

battery, showed me how I could live with my computer "on the road." It

would be an interesting life and I could carry a lot more than I do

with the motorcycle. I'd pass on the pit bulls though. They looked

like they could eat a lot of food which they would convert to large

piles of shit. If I had a BMW behind my housetruck I probably would

not need the pit bull security system he had, no one would want to

steal the BMW.

Indians are in New Zealand. It seems that after the war (number

II) the USA left about 5,000 of the military models down there, along

with a couple of tons of spare parts. So there are lots of Indian

military models still running. The New Zealanders are also great

motorcycle collectors so other Indian models have found their way to

this far away place. The newest Indian Motocycle in New Zealand is a

1948 model, shipped in from the States. Each year there is an Indian

Motocycle Meeting and it looked like several hundred were present for

the last one. Two Indian owners I met invited me to their next meeting

a promised to get me an Indian to ride if I was able to get to New

Zealand. They remembered me from when I raced my Indian up Pikes Peak

a couple of years ago and was featured in some magazines. That goes to

show how small the globe really is and how much smaller is the world of

Indian Motocycle owners.

Motorcycles in New Zealand have become very reasonable in price.

On my last trip they were much more expensive (used) than in the

States. Now they are much closer in price and I saw several that were

better deals than in the USA. If someone were going to be in New

Zealand for a month or more and wanted to see it by motorcycle an

economic option would be to fly in and buy one, then peddle it when

leaving or ship it on to Australia to use over there. I had purchased

bikes on earlier trips and found that to be a good way to go instead of

renting or shipping one in. Now the market is even better. And just

about everything was available, from Harley (pricey) to Triumph.

Off-road riding in New Zealand is a little difficult, as they do

not have the great number of public areas as we do in the USA. Much of

their off-road stuff is privately owned. I worked a deal for a day

with an off-road motorcycle tour group to ride along with them. The

owner questioned me about my skill level and I assured him I would be

able to "keep up" with his group. I did not know his group was being

led by his son who must have watched Dusty Demon's Of Dirt about 1,000

times and liked to "get air" or jump his bike. They put me on a 350cc

dirt bike then told me to follow this demon with the rest of the group

of youthful crazies. An afternoon of cow trails, jeep trails, ATV

trails and 20-60 foot jumps left me with shaking knees, both hands numb

and a sore back, but I kept up. As we parted the eighteen-year-old

leader told me I "did pretty good for an American. Usually you Yanks

fall down in that first cow pasture." I tried not to grimace as he

squeezed my swollen hand and tried to maintain a steady shuffle on

spaghetti legs as I moved over to my road bike, a much more sedate BMW

GS. That night vodka taken with some pills that says on the label "Do

not mix with alcohol" made me half-well and I decided the day ride and

photographs were well worth the pain. New Zealand has some beautiful

backcountry, the problem is getting to it. Groups like this motorcycle

company rent access from farmers and make it possible to get away from

the paved and gravel roadways, and unsteady German drivers in rented

motor homes (a serious danger cited by New Zealand drivers/riders).

As I left New Zealand I felt I would return. I'd like to try the

housetrucker life for a month, I missed a couple of good roads and the

Indian Motorcycle meeting sounded like fun. The Maori people I met

offered a lifestyle and culture I'd like to experience. I would like

to return to the solitude of riding and camping on 90-Mile Beach (where

the beach is actually a designated road and it is free). I have

started to acquire an understanding of the New Zealander's slang

("G'day mate, Yank and wanker), their sense of humor and their backward

driving style. I even came to like their thin sandwiches and tasteless

Big Macs. Their beer is as good as Bavarian swill and costs far less.

And, maybe when I return, I might see a Kiwi.

END

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31 May 99