Most motorcyclists tour Ireland and Scotland on the same journey and because England had a great influence on both some comparison may help.
It is much more expensive to travel in Scotland than Ireland, but the roads are much better in Scotland and it can be argued that the scenery is much more impressive.
It is often hard to understand the natives, especially when they speak with one another, but both are use to speaking to English speaking people so it is not a problem.
It is easier to get hold of the emergency services in Scotland than in Ireland.
Once you are in either country, the best ferry link to get you to the more interesting places is the link from Ballycastle, N. Ireland to Campbeltown, Scotland.
IRELAND
The Irish seem to be addicted to vices, some of which are drugs, drinking and smoking. What does this mean for the motorcyclist?
First crime is high in the larger cities, especially Dublin. One rider reported that they had just arrived on the ferry, drove 8 kilometers to downtown Dublin, parked their motorcycle on the sidewalk next to others and went into a pub across the street. Upon leaving a street worker told them they should never leave their motorcycle unchained or it would be gone. A wit once stated that after a few days one would be happy to leave Dublin and great some fresh air after the city fumes and cigarette smoke in the pubs. Ireland should expect a great problem in a few years with high cancer rate.
Some Irish were complaining that the Yanks, Brits, and Germans were buying up land as fast as they could making it difficult for young couples to purchase their first homes. And they said, the Germans would buy property and visit but never spend in money in the local economy. Several Irish were reported as saying that legislation was necessary to correct the problem. At this time it means little to motorcyclists except that the Yanks and Brits did not like to nor give permission to set up ones tent on farm land they own.
Also check where your motorcycle dealer might be. For example, there is only two BMW dealers in Ireland, both in the Dublin area so if you have a serious problem you might have to drive a ways to get help. Further, two calls to their emergency road service used by AAA and ADAC members resulted in no answer to one call and a recording to another which cut off before one was able to leave a message. Don't break down on the weekend.
In the country there are not many hotels and almost no motels. The trade is in Bed and Breakfast or Zimmers. These usually include Breakfast but it does not take long to get tired of eggs, sausages and ham which is referred to "Cancer on a Plate." The local natives do not eat this for breakfast. Continental breakfast is available upon request.
Roads: The roads are bad in Ireland. They seem very wavy and we can only suggest that they do not roll them out after laying down the tar. So one can not speed on them. In fact one English motorcyclist reported that last year another English motorcyclists was killed when the pinion was thrown into the air landing on the rider causing an accident killing both. They must have been speeding but the road condition certainly was at fault. So be certain your shocks are in good condition. Also, the roads eat up tires and they are not always easy to get so have new ones before you start. Because of the slow, narrow roads, you will soon realize that you need twice as much time as you thought you would need.
Rain. It will rain. Take good rain gear. One traveller reported to us that in 1994 they were having a heat spell and he found no rain. But in 1998 it rain almost every day, except one. 1999 has not been too bad as of yet.
Killer farmers: Farmers think they owe the world and don't pay attention to what they are doing to others. They drive large and small tractors on the road way without signals nor lights and turn without looking. While there, one driver was overtaking a farm tractor when it turned in front of their vehicle causing them to run into it. The passenger suffered a broken sternum. The police told them it would due no good to sue the farmer.
Animals: Animals can be a problem here. But the sheep appear to be much more docile than in say Iceland or New Zealand. But they can be found on the roadway lose or pulling carts. Read this attached story:
THUNDER may have startled a horse which jumped a fence on to the road directly in the path of a car, Dublin City Coroner's Court heard yesterday. In the subsequent collision, a man died from head injuries. Mr Oliver Maye (53), Roches town, Ballymitty, New Ross, Co Wexford, died at Beaumont Hospital on 10th April, 1998, three days afler the collision at Hayestown okn the Wexford-Dumcannon road Mr. Richard Maye was driving from work with his father as a front-seat passenger. He had come out of a gradual bend and was on a straight stretch of road when out of the blue the horse appeared in front of him. He could not avoid the collision. Garda John Sheehy, Wexford, said it was a thundery afternoon and the horse jumped over the lowest part of the roadside hedge into the path of the car. Afler the initial impact it laned on the roof of the car and crushed it. The lowest part of the hedge at the scene was about. 4 ft high and in normal circumstances should have been sufficient to contain any animal. He believed the horse, which was two or three years old, was startled by a clap of thunder. A second horse remained in the field. A post-mortem examination showed that Mr Maye's death was due to severe head injuries and the jury returned a verdict of accidental death.
Tinkers: Whatever the history of these people, either disposed farmers or gypsies, they have a bad reputation among the natives. At one time they performed important functions such as sharping implements. But in this modern age their skills are being obsolete. So some are turning to crime. You will find them parked along the roadways for several weeks or months at a time in trailers. Just don't camp close to them and this may be another reason to lock your bike and protect your helmet as they are often found outside the large cities.
We suggest that one arrive on the east coast, such as Dublin or Westport, travel clockwise to N. Ireland leaving there by ferry to Scotland. You arrive n Scotland at Campbeltown which is really the best place to start.
Camping: There are several camping sites in Ireland and here are the best we found:
#1 Southwest Coast. Bantry Bay, between the towns of Bantry and Glengarriff there is a small town called Ballylickey. It has an organized campsite, but one can camp on a small peninsula away from the recreational vehicles.
#2. On the tip of the Kerry Peninsula, there is an island called Valencia. On the western tip there is one of the many Lookout Towers one finds in Ireland. There is a gate and parking lot at the bottom of the hill but one can simply open the gate and ride your motorcycle to the top. Several local natives did this while one of our travellers were there. Only the tourists parked in the parking lot. If you arrive in the evening you might be able to wild camp at this site. There is nothing there except a beautiful view.
#3. West of Donegal, ride a few miles west past Killybegs to the small village of KILCAR. One kilometer west of Kilcar, up the west hill is a hostel and a campground. The view is excellent as the entire campground, of only 8 sites and is terraced so that each campsite has its own view of Donegal Bay. Look for the Dun Ulun House. The campsites are aross the street.
Touring: The roads are narrow, the tour buses are wide. So, when you reach an area or peninsula heavy with tour buses, find out the direction they take and then travel the other way. For example, tour buses on the Kerry Ring travel in a counter clockwise route. They all travel the same direction because they are too wide to pass one another. So travel clockwise. It is just the opposite direction you want to take other peninsulas so check out which direction they will be travelling in. It is very dangerous and difficult to try to overtake and pass them.
ARTICLES:
For information on Scotland go to the SCOTLAND HOMEPAGE
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