Dear Tynda:
We just finished a 10,000 mile trip around Chile and Argentina. Here are some thoughts for others:
#1. Motorcycle travelling in Chile is based upon the PanAmerician Highway (Route 5). Running north to south, it can not be avoided. The idea is to carefully look at your map and see when you can go off the PanAmerican and return to it only when necessary. There is very little to see from the highway except for heavy auto and truck traffic.
#2. The PanAmerican is the only north-south paved road. Many of the roads off the PA are not paved, but you will find services without problems, gas, hotels, food, tire repair, telephones. You will also find the police here who may want to see all your documents and if you start with an International Drivers License, they may be satisfied. They also use radar in places. We had no trouble with them but see this:
Several motorcycle travellers told us about a recent problem one Swiss motorcyclist encountered. When you cross the boarder one normally has to go through three desks, immigrations, customs, and one other. Knowing that you do not speak nor write Spanish they will fill out the motorcycle custom form for you (so you will need proof of ownership). The customs official filled out the form for the Swiss motorcyclists but made a error and put on the form that an auto, not a moto, was being brought in. This is easy to do even when you may have your helmet with you. When the Swiss couple tried to leave Chile, all hell broke lose. After a night in jail, travelling 1000 k, and other problems, such as paying a fine, they were allowed to leave with their motorcycle. Since you, as the traveller and owner, must sign the form, read it carefully and make certain it is for an moto.
#3. Once you are off the PanAmerican the roads may very will not be paved, so more than a street tire will be appreciated. And, when you enter the National Parks, the roads are not maintained nor upgraded in any way.
#4. The Route: Basically Chile can be divided into three parts:
A. South to Santiago
B. Santiago to Puerto Montt
C. Puerto Montt south.
Santiago to Puerto Montt is about 900 k. There are several great areas to see off the PanAmerican. This stretch of road is all paved except when you get off, then it may be 50-50.
South of Puerto Montt, the road divides into two portion. The west portion is a paved road on the isle of Chiloe. The east portion is on the mainland and is being paved but is 90% still gravel. Do not expect totake the ferry routed from south and east of Puerto Montt until January. Service begin on the first of the month. One can however take the ferry either from Puerto Montt or from the isle of Chiloe. This ferry leaves from the southern town of Quellon and takes 4 to 6 hour to reach Chaiten.
#5 Beside the guidebook you bring along one that you might think of purchasing is TURISTEL published by a local phone company, CTC (Compania de Telefonos de Chile) They are all over and also often offer internet services. This guide consists of 3 books plus a camping guild. They are in Spanish but a one volumne English version is available but somewhat out of date. A new English version is suppose to be available winter of 2000.
Reutrn to the homepage for CHILE
Feb 2000