DEAR TYNDA
This is one of two reports for you. The first we sent had motorcycle tips.
Now, here is one of our personal journey.
10,000 miles around Chile and Argentina. Well, actually it was only 9111 miles but that doesn't make an exciting title. Of this 3378, were in Chile and the remainder in Argentina.
Our motorcycle, a BMW GS, was shipped from New Zealand where we had left it after 5 tours of Australia and 3 in New Zealand. We had it modified in Australia so that it has two shocks. We had also taken it to Indonesia and Singapore. After completing those adventures we returned home before flying to Santiago to meet our motorcycle. No problem except that the airlines lost our baggage including the seat. The stock seat was so uncomfortable that after 50,000 miles on it we gave up hope and by using the frame had a new seat built. In the lost luggage was this seat so we decided to wait to pick up the motorcycle when we had it. It took 6 to 8 hours to get the motorcycle out of customs because first, they wanted to charge us an import duty, but decided not to if we took it out of Chile within 90 days. No problem since this fit into our plans.
Our plans were to drive south as far as we could which meant Chile Chico where we would enter Argentina at Perito Moreno and end up in Ushuaia where we would meet some of our motorcycle friends from Germany. The first major stop would be Puerto Montt which is 1016 k from Santiago or approximately 600 miles. But, we wanted to stay off the PanAmerican as much as possible. Going south we criss-crossed Chile going from sea to mountain, mountain to sea. We much prefer the mountains. In New Zealand we had put a new Bridgestone Trail Wing on the rear which proved a good choice for Chile. Off the PanAmerican roads are often not paved. We believe that getting off paved road provides better motorcycling and views of a foreign country. This Bridgestone is a semi-nobby tire with which we were quite pleased.
On the way south of Santiago, we met Luis Zumaran and his wife. They invited us to stay with them in their town of Parral. He is the bank manager and they live above the bank. We speak no Spanish and they little English but we had a good time anyway, especially when they showed us their summer cottage.
In Angol we met Grace and Abel Vega and their two daughters. Since they are, more or less, missionaries they speak English . Our stay with them lasted for two days. A nice rest in the town of El Vergel, Angol.
Then, because we wanted to take our motorcycle to the top of the Volcano Antillanca we spent a night at a ski lodge (we were the only ones staying there) where we met and were invited into the home of Mauricio, Vilma & Natalia PurrsJone. Their home is in Purranque, south of Osorno. As we slowly made our way south we met Felix Grimm, who owns a hotel in Puerto Montt, where we later stayed Being a motorcyclist he promised to help locate a tire for the front which we knew would be needing before the unpaved and more isolated Austral. This was a most fortunate meeting for he certainly gave us much aid when our starter burned up. His hotel has a website at www.ogrimm.com.
After 2270 miles and 26 days we reached Puerto Montt which is the way station on the route south. Here the paved PanAmerican ends as you reach the gulf. The choice is to go west to the island of Chiloe or east to Chaiten. But, we were there in December and the ferry along the coast road does not operate until January. So one must take the ferry from the isle of Chiloe or from Puerto Montt. Since this was a motorcycle trip we took the road to Chiloe where at the first major town, Ancud, we had starter problems. Our 91 BMW GS does not have a kick starter and it weighs too much to push start unless going downhill. As our motorcycle was sitting out in front of the moto/bicycle shop a BMW rider rode past and offered to help. Fernando Surez and his family welcomed us into their home for meals and gave a tour around the area. He also loaned us this BMW motorcycle. What a guy! They were concerned for our comfort and well being. Without Fernando and Felix, things would not have gone as smoothly. Incidentally, in Aucud, Walter owns the moto/bicycle shop, Ciclismo Sport, and was also very helpful. He is located at Ramirez 311 which is about 5 blocks from the square.
After four days of discussion it was decided that Fernando would put our motorcycle in his truck, along with the load of seaweed he was going to delivery north of Santiago. It was slow going and for 25 hours we travelled the 1000k back to Santiago where the starter was rebuilt by a friend of Felix. This was a KTM shop located at Avda Apoquindo 8263, Fono 229-9101, located not too far from the BMW shop.
Incidentally, there are two BMW shops in Santiago that we know of. They are:
1/ Marco Canales, San Camilo 185. Fono-Fax 6344182. He is one of those very small moto shops close to downtown. The other is
2/ Division Motocicletas, Willamson Balfour Motors Padre Hurtado norte 1392, telefono 56-2-3420690. This is one of those large BMW shops that sell BMW motorcycles as a sideline. Presently the director of motos is Hernan Aguilera (hsilva@inchcape.cl)
We spent some time playing tourist while waiting for repairs. In looking for an internet cafe, we ran across Ana with Guia Turistica de Chile which has a non-motorcycle website which may prove helpful www.aeroplan.cl. Among other things they have maps you can download.
Then we started our trip again.
So, we simply did a fang down to Osorno, turned east and headed towards Argentina. Although we tried to avoid the PanAmerican as much as possible we did parts of it on the first motorcycle trip, the whole thing by truck back to Santiago, and then by motorcycle south to Osorno. The farther off the PanAmerican we went the more we could see. The nearer we got to Argentina, the more dramatic the scenery became. The last night in Chile we camped on Entre Lagos, then early the next morning crossed into Argentina.
Go to the
ARGENTINA page of our adventure
or return to the CHILE HOMEPAGE