ARGENTINA REPORT BY GAIL & ERIC
A REPORT TO TYNDA
After leaving Chile (for that report go to CHILE REPORT) we rode about, but not quite, 6000 miles in Argentina where we passed through at the western border near the tourist town of Bariloche.
Contrary to what we expected we really found little similarity between Chile and Argentina. Both are probably the most European of all the South American countries. There are few native Indians left in either country, much different than the rest of South American.
Most motorcyclists enter Argentina either on the western side, as we did, or on the eastern border at Buenos Aires. Think of the road system as a giant "Y". No matter where you start, going south the two main routes merge and then head towards Ushuaia. This "Y" consists of two main routes. On the east, Ruta 3, and on the west, Ruta 40. So we will tell you what we encountered.
RUTA 40. This was the main road on the west side of Argentina. It is where most tour groups travel but we actually don't know their full route. Barilcoche is a very tourist oriented town. On a loop outside of town we met Roy Roudnick from Brazil. As soon as we left Bariloche the road was unpaved, in part because we entered a national park wanting to stay off the paved road and because we did not have the correct insurance papers. We camped in the park that night. The next morning as we left the gravel road and were then onto pavement, just south of Trevelin ,which is still south of the larger town of Esquel, there was a large roadblock with many policemen. They didn't pay any attention to us because we came on from gravel to pavement just in the middle of the road block and they were quite busy.
Then we left Esquel heading south (this part is paved) staying on Ruta 40 to avoid the road block until we reached Rio Mayo. This is when the adventure starts again. Get gas here. There is also a hotel owned by a horseman. While it is a nice gravel road the wind can make it a bit tricky. Also, about 10 miles north of the line for Santa Cruz province there is a great sand trap, actually two, where the wind blows sand across the road. Autos were stuck here. After about 120k more, we reached Purito Moreno. This is where many motorcyclists cross from Chile close to the town of Chile Chico. We had planned to enter at this border crossing before the starter problem which forced us back north. Get supplies here. Because, the next village, Bajo Caracoles, only has a basic hotel but gas is available. We saw the stickers of the Pacho Villa Team there. Later, the Macedonian Tour Group said they stayed here hotel also. The next gas is about 320K near Tres Lagos. Don't go into Tres Lagos as the station is about 10K further. Along the way we crossed the Rio Chico where there is a free camping site. We mention this because on this 320K it is a long way between nothing. Then, a few kilometers after the turn off to Gobernador Gregores, there is Estacion La Angosura. Their signs are along the road so you can't miss it. We stopped there for Christmas lunch and found that the Motorad Action Team stays overnight. It will cost $40.00 per person. It is possible to buy gas here. We bought gas because once in Estonia, in the middle of nowhere at midnight, we ran out of gas so we never miss a chance. Especially since the wind drastically cuts the miles per gallon. About 70 kilometers further south is another Estacion, La Siberia, which also has facilities and even signs in English, so they must be serious plus this ranch can be seen from the road. If we were to do this trip again we would not do it all in one day but stay or camp once along this road. As it was, we did 500Kthat day including a flat tire just after lunch. But then it was Christmas.
After reaching Tres Lagos the road deteriorates but leads to Fitz Roy on Ruta 23. After visiting Fitz Roy, a no miss place, and rejoining Ruta 40, continue on for about 20K and cross Rio La Leona. Just after the bridge, and around the bend there is a small lodge that serves the best Lemon Pie in the world. Worth a stop. Ruta 40 can be a rough trip for some and all these tour groups have problems resulting in broken bones and riders who simply can't make it any further, especially those going two up.
Then it is on down to Ruta 11, a paved road that leds to El Calafate and the Moreno Glacier. On the way to the Glacier we met the Macedonian team (Italian) leader who said normally he was not the leader but the usual one had fallen a few days before and was restricted to the chase vehicle. Neither seemed very happy about this, the uninuried rider not thinking a Moto Guzi was the best motorcycle for this type of road.
At El Calafate a decision has to be made. Decide to travel south to Torres del Paine in Chile or to Rio Gallegos. We chose the latter because we were now short of time due to the starter problem and our intentions were to arrive in Ushuaia by News Year's Eve to meet some of our friends. There may be something interesting between El Calafate and Rio Gallegos but whatever it is we missed it. It was just a fang and the road was paved all the way.
It was here that we met another traveller, one of the very few we had yet to see on this trip. Andres Carlstein, president of Carlstein Travel Productions, was travelling from New York, USA and we rode together to Ushuaia. Then, just before we crossed the border to Chile, on the way to Ushuaia we met Nat from England, who has his own website. Go to his webpage ARMCHALLENGE to find out more about his fund raising trip from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska to Ushuaia. Tynda says he will have more information on both of them on this website at a later date.
After arriving in Rio Gallegos and heading south it is necessary to cross into Chile again. The road is not paved and much time is spent on border crossings and safe travel. The countries have not developed a transit pass so you must go through all three steps upon entering and leaving Chile and then again upon reentering Argentina. It makes work for bureaucrats. At Rio Grande, on the coast and back in Argentina we stayed at CLUB NAUTICO which was a surprise. They were most happy to see us and allowed us to park the motorcycles (now three) inside with their boats. It was nice just being out of the wind. Here were clean, large, hot showers and kitchen facilities. In fact, it was so pleasant we stayed there on the way back which violates one of our travel tenets, never stay in the same place twice. After leaving Rio Grande the road is paved, in fact paved upon entering Argentina. But we took a nonpaved diversion, Ruta 1, a much more scenic road than Ruta 40 at this stage and there are estancions and places to camp. It is also sheltered and out of the wind, in part because here one finds trees again.
USHUAIA: The only goal we had on the trip was to reach here and camp with our friends. In fact, all but three of the world's most important motorcyclists showed up for the New Year of 2000. There was someplace between 30 and 50 motorcyclists camping there, along with some hangerons.
Ushuaia is the place to get resupplied and tires, which we did as the rear went flat just before we got to Pablo's, the best motorcycle shop in town. Pablo is a very interesting person who once raced a Vista scooter against small motorcycles and won. You can see his picture crossing water on the wall of his very crowded shop at Lapataia e Intendente Olmos 898, an out of the way place. The camping site is about 20K beyond the city. We have a link to a site where you can find out more information and the motorcyclists who attended (go to the website of Jean-Andre Corpus).
After New Year's it was back north, staying again in Rio Grande and then further north to the border with Chile. There, we left our two new friends , Andres & Nat, and took the gravel road west to Povenir, the once a day ferry to Punta Arenas, and then north to Pt. Natales. On the way we took another side journey because the road was gravel and more interesting. The National Park of Torres del Paine was the next stop. Here the wind is very strong. We met two motorcyclists from Spain who were having a rough time. One had gone down 3 times on just a short stretch of the road. You need upper body strength and it will be difficult to do two up. But we made it. If you stay for four days plan to spend 2 days in your tent due to rains. We were told it always rains here so plan extra days. There is gas just before the park in the town of Co. Castillo and at the end of the park road. It is also nearly as cheap to stay in a hostel here than camp in the park. Going out means taking the same road but at least the wind may be to your back. Since this is a protected area the wildlife is much more tame.
Once out of the park it is short stretch to the border with Argentina. By this time there have been so many border crossing that it becomes rather tedious. But then it is only a few hundred K to El Calafate. The first time we entered the town was just after the Macedonia tour group went through the checkpoint. The guard noticed and said that he knew we were not with that group. Probably because we were carrying our own gear. This time when we came, three weeks later, he just waved us through with a big grin. In El Calafate we met another person we decided to travel with, one we had first met in Ushuaia, "Mad Max" aka Urs, from Switzerland. We could have returned by Ruta 40 but we had done this and needed to get on to Buenos Aires. There is a gravel road leading straight to Ruta 3. This road, Ruta 9, follows the Rio Santa Cruz, on a high ridge, never reaching the river itself.
After Ruta 9 reaches Ruta 3 and on about 12K north, there is an interesting diversion, a camp site at I Monte Leon where one can camp with penguins. It is free which we mention because one of our motorcycle friends in Ushuaia told us that further north of this site, somewhere, they charge $10.00 to visit the penguins. North of this site we continued to Luis Piedra Buena, then further north to Pt. San Julian. There is not much along the way but on the west side of the road, just north of Pt. San Julian and before the gravel road to the National Park of Bosques Petrificados, there is a small restaurant with free camping and free showers (well, one shower in the men's). There is a gas station about 1K further up the road.
The next days had a few adventures, such as when Mad Max's front wheel bearings when out but it was just outside of town and another motorcyclist stopped to help and of course knew where to go to get bearings. And, a motorclub van from Brazil also stopped to help with the problem so now we had about 6 motorcycle persons helping. In an hour or so we were off again. Then on a rainy, slick part of the road, Mad Max skidded into us at a stop sign, doing a 360 degree spin at a busy intersection, but no real damage expect that we now have a souvenir on our panniers. We also spent some time on the Penn. Valdes which is not worth going to unless one intends on doing the island circuit which we did. Incidentally, they say there is not free camping here but just beyond of the small town of Puerto Piramide, on a dirt road, there is a turn off to the left that takes one down to the beach where many local people camp.
We continued on until we reached the town of Azul which has a moto club. Not to be missed so go to MOTO CLUB OF AZUL.
Mad Max stayed here as we separated so we could go on to Bueno Aires which is only 300Ks. Here we found a BMW mechanic and left our motorcycle. It badly needed repairs. During the entire trip we had been in communications with a motorcyclist who lives here and helped us and others immensely. He had found us via this website and Tynda. Gabriel and his wife certainly were great hosts and his country can be proud of them. They have helped motorcyclists get insurance, assisted with lodging, transportation, language and were just good people, as was his father. They truly care about visitors to their country. Incidentally, the fears we had about having no insurance were for naught, as we were seldom stopped and when we were never asked about insurance. Gabriel says we were lucky. Remember what the police want, not moto insurance, but third party insurance. The first is not available for foreign travellers, only the latter. Also, what we read about the drivers IS true in Argentina. They drive fast and not so careful. So insurance can be important, as a foreigner you might be judged at fault even if you are not.
So ended our 70 day motorcycle journey. Not enough time, but we left the motorcycle there for repairs and it waits for our return.
Gail and Eric Haws for Tynda
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