My Honda Transalp was safely parked at Duarte Sur motorcycles, the southernmost Honda dealer in the world. With Ellen and Gerd I started the long way north along the Andes. At the Punta Delgada ferry we were delayed for 10 hours. It was election day in Chile, and nobody works during the elections. We did not stop except for filling up our motorcycles as well as ourself and for sleeping until we reached Puerto Natales, the gateway to the Torres del Paine Nationalpark. In the park, we were pushed off the road by the storm which gave us a hard time to stay on the roads. But the splendid mountain scenery, with blue, green and turquoise lakes, glaciers, and abundant wildlife made up for the difficulties. We did an overnight hike but were caught by the incoming rain before we reached the viewpoint at the foot of the Trres del Paine cliffs.
After Torres del Paine, I went on my own to Calafate. The impressive Perito Moreno glacier unraveled its splendor despite low clouds and a light drizzle. I still cannot decide if Perito Moreno Glacier or Childs glacier in Alaska is more impressive. Then came the worst gravel road of the entire trip. Routa 40 is famous for its isolation, it covers western Argentina from south to north. In large parts, it was easy riding on quite good gravel, but for about 150km there was deep loose gravel , difficult to ride in the strong westerly winds. Afterwards I crossed the border to Chile and continued on the famous Carretera Austral. The weather was sunny and clear for 3 consecutive days. The narrow gravelroad winds through dense forests, along blue lakes and skirts snowcapped mountains. I was able to enjoy 900km of this great part of the world before going back to Argentina at Futualeufu. In Esquel, I saw the old Patagonia Express. While in the Los Alerces Nationalpark, I found the most beautiful campingspot on a lakeshore with beautiful views of the mountains. In Bariloche, I was stunned by the huge chocolate factory salespalaces, souvenirshops and thousands of tourists. This is the largest tourist destination in the southern Andes, with a well developed tourist industry to explorethe beautiful countryside of mountains and lakes. It reminded me of the Swiss Alps.
San Martin de los Andes, 200km north of Bariloche, has similar but smaller shops and seems to be a quieter place. I had the choice of three roads into Chile. I did not want to miss one of them, so I went to Chile on the main Hwy to Osorno, visited the German settlements along Lago Llanquihue and went back to Argentina via the steep, narrow and lonely Carrine pass which had some difficult sections. On the way back, I took the 2 hour ferry across lake Pinhuelco back into Chile. The lake district of southern Chile is stunning. Many Volcanoes rise above blue lakes. Green meadows and dark forests dot the countryside together with beautiful wooden mansions, built by German and Swiss immigrants hundred years ago. One of their legacies are good restaurants and cafes with delicious cakes. Travelling the lake district is like travelling the alps before they paved the roads 50 years ago.
In Pucon, the outdoor touristcenter of Chile, thousands of young tourists enjoy the black sandy beaches and the numerous adventure opportunities. Another reason to visit the region are more than 10 thermal spas to relax and spend a day in hot waters. I left the tourist traps of Pucon behind and visited the backwater region of the Lonquimay volcano. A young couple from Switzerland has created a small bed and breakfast place with campground. Its a great place to spent a couple of days in a cozy atmosphere. The hike up to the 2890m Lonquimay volcano is rewarding, with a view to 10 other snowcapped volcanoes in the distance and devastating lavaflows from the latest eruptions in 1988. The nearby Sierra Nevada and the beautiful Conguillo Nationalpark that surrounds the still active Llaima volcano are also worth a visit. Although the weather was far from perfect, it rained 3 out of 5 days at El Encuentro, I enjoyed my stay there.
Further north, I parked my bike near Concepcion with a friend to come back later and visit the northern part of the country. With the nightrain, in a Pullmann sleeping car from the thirties, I reached Santiago. It was hot and dry, and I explored the bustling center and the relaxing park at Cerro Sta. Lucia with splendid views of downtown.
After 9 weeks, 10000km and 67 rolls of slidefilm, I went back to work in Germany, longing to come back.
Werner
Patagonia/Antarctica 1999/2000
Copyright: Werner Zwick, Remagen, Germany
