BOLIVIA

REPORT FROM CHRIS

Hi TYNDA

    Sorry that it took me so long to respond.  Since we met, I've been staying mostly in small pueblos and haven't been able to check my E-mail.  I hope that everything is fine with you, and that you're having an enjoyable ride.
    As far as the salt flats are concerned....  Let's see, what can I tell you.  First of all, that it's very easy.  The flats are smoother than just about any Bolívian highway, and are a relief after the jolts that you'll encounter getting there.  However, I would not recommend going in the rainy season (Nov/Dec thru Apr. May) as the flats get covered with a few inches of very salty water which will find its way into just about every part of the bike and ruin electrical systems, corrode metal, etc..  June/July are just too cold to be any fun.  The salar is whiter than white and reflects just about all of the solar energy that falls upon it during the day time.  That and the altitude make for very cold conditions.  When I went, I kept finding myself with the sensation that I was riding across a giant frozen lake instead of a salt flat.  The days are tolerable, but the nights get very cold.  So that leaves August through October as the best time to go.  But still be prepared for cold nightime temperatures!
    There are several routes across the salar, and, contrary to rumors, it's not that hard to navigate.  People will tell you that your compass won't work, you'll get disoriented, UFO's will take you away, etc., etc..  None of that is true, but you should carry plenty of gas and water, and make note of landmarks on the horizon behind you just in case.  The truth is that with all of the tours and cross salar trade, there are well defined black tire tracks on the salt that you can follow.
    From the entrance to the Salar, which is from a town just west and a little north of Uyuni (I can't remember the name, but it's clear on any map and is in all of the guide books), you can see a small blip on the horizon which is the hotel made of salt.  It's interesting and nice for a look around or a soda pop, but sleeping on one of the islands is a more rewarding experience.  Follow the tracks from the hotel to fisherman's island (Isla de los Pescadores). There is a very nice man who lives there who is very knowledgeable about the salar and its surroundings, and can direct you to the various exit points.  He also will let you camp or will provide shelter in a small building for a small fee.  From there, I went on to Llica and to the Salar de Coripasa.
To get to Llica, head west looking for the island that looks like a turtle and continue following a track to one of the exit points.  It is not possible to exit the flats just anywhere as the salt can be soft or there is a steep bank, so you will need to follow a well established path to get off of the salt.  But while you're on it, it's fun to wander around visiting or camping on various islands (you'll have them all to yourself and the silence is incredible).  Be careful of soft salt though.  When you're on established routes, you can go as fast as you want, but off of the beaten track you'll need to be somewhat careful of soft spots.
    You can also continue on South to Los Lipez (Laguna Colorada, Verde etc.), which I started from the other side (starting in San Pedro de Atacama, Chilè) about a month and a half ago.  The scenery is beautiful, but the conditions are very cold (-25C at night), gasoline is scarce, and the roads are a very difficult combination of sand, bad washboard, and rocks.  It's do-able, but be prepared!  Get a good map as there are no signs telling you where all of the forks go.  It's not easy and is hard on the bike (the washboard is like you've never seen before!).  Gas is sporadically available at the small towns like Alota, San Juan, San Cristobal, and others, but you'll still need a big tank and expect to get 2/3 to 3/4 of the fuel efficiency that you get on the highway.  There is also basic lodging in those towns.
    That's about it.  The salar is beautiful (especially the sky at night) as is the ride from La Paz to Uyuni.  Be sure to stop by Potosí as that is a nice route.

    Got to run, they're closing this joint.  Keep the rubber side down!

    Chris

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