AN EMAIL ABOUT ARGENTINA
Dear Tynda
Here is the report you requested about Argentina.
We entered Argentina from Chile (Osorno to Bariloche) and although we have crossed many borders it was our first in South America.
There are three tables one must approach and after completing all documents you are given a form to hand over to the gate guard. Then you can leave. When we entered they looked at our passport and were amazed that we had been to so many places. Fortunately, they were fairly new passports so we did not blow their minds. But, they said welcome and they would give us 9 months for our moto.
As we slowly made our way south to Ushuaia for the campout and later to Buenos Aires, we crossed the borders between Chile and Argentina many times. Although this may be common, if one wants to go to Ushuaia, you can not get there without entering Chile. There is no such thing as a transient document, as far as we know, and we didn't ask if there were one. It would be far easier for all travelers if there were.
But after several crossing one becomes use to these procedures. Upon entering Argentina for the last time, customs informed us that since our passports only gave us 90 days that was all they would give for our moto. But, we had made a copy of the original nine month document and had given a copy to the next border crossing after first entering Argentina. We had the original nine month document and felt we did not need to worry. We did not think their computer system was that good. There was time before the nine months original custom's document expired. When we returned we chose not take the ferry to Uruguay, instead rode north of BA and as we left Argentina (entering Uruguay at Paysandu) discovered that the original nine month document was now missing and we only had a copy. When we left Argentina, for the final time, we played very dumb, did not speak Spanish (which we don't) and finally were allowed with our moto to leave. Even tho it can be time consuming to be so dumb it is a ploy that generally works for us. This is also true when stopped by the road police.
We were then in Uruguay and went through the same formality that we had upon entering Argentina. We drove north in Uruguay along the Rio Uruguay, until we entered Brazil at the border at Bella Union. They asked where we were going. Our plans were to go to the great falls (Foz do Iguacu). They stated if that were so we needed no documents therefore they did not stamp our passports nor give us customs documents for the moto. I guess they did not want to do any work for tourists who would only be in their country a day or two. And, it was lunch time. Then, about 100 miles north of our entrance point we recrossed again into Argentina (at the town of Uruguaiana). There was not customs office upon leaving Brazil. In Argentina, they stamped our passports but said we needed nothing for our moto. This was a concern as we knew we would be going back to the western borders of Argentina where they were much more concerned with red tape. But since we do not speak Spanish we could not convince them that we did need the document for the moto.
When going to the falls from Argentina, you just tell them that you are only going to the falls and they do nothing but let you leave. When you come back they don't really check anything. There are so many border crossings here each day as Argentinans go to Brazil as it is much cheaper to shop. At this point we were riding with a Spanish speaking friend. When it was necessary to cross from Brazil into Argentina he explained to customs the situation about the missing document. They agreed that it was a concern. If we were stopped by the police in Argentina, without custom's documents for the moto, it would be serious. So they gave us another nine months document.
Many days later we were in northwest Argentina ready to enter Bolivia (at Villizin). We gave the customs agent a copy only of our new nine months documents, playing dumb and speaking only English. We kept the original. The customs agent spoke a little English and was very concerned that we did not have an original document but finally after some delay let sent us on our way.
The point of this story is that nine month documents are available. If you expect trouble go to the northeastern border between Argentina and Brazil at the falls. Because of the high rate of crossing, the customs agents are much slacker than in the west where there used to be many border disputes between Chile and Argentina. At the boarder crossing at Foz do Iguacu, one can leave without documents but have your passport stamped showing that you left. Then you can tell them in Brazil that you are going to Rio. Or you can re-enter Argentina and attempt to get a nine month document for your moto. I would always keep a copy of a document that you want so the custom agents have the info about your moto and know what document you want. We each carry a copy on our person in case we are stopped. It is so much easier to pull out one paper than to open panniers each time. Riding two up it is the pinion rider who goes into the little hut to pay the toll and show the paper.
Hope this helps other riders.
Eric & Gail Haws
Another Email from another rider
You guys got along much better than I did.
Argentine customs screwed me and I had to leave the bike in Uruguay, at my
uncles farm because I was told I could only have 8 months out of a year in
the country with the bike. I am leaving tomorrow for the US. Well, gotta go.
Talk to you more when I get back.
Andres
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