DEAR TYNDA
Here is the report you requested on our motorcycle trip from La Paz, Bolivia north through Peru to Quito, Ecuador.
We have relied on reports given by other motorcyclists whom we met along the way and our own experiences.
We had stored our moto at the Honda dealer in La Paz thanks to a recommendation we received from your pages. We found that Walter, the owner, to be not only very nice but reliable too. Others have stored their motos there and in addition visited his moto garage. Everyone gives good reports so motorcyclists can rely on him. We know of several motos being stored with Walter as this is being written.
Information for Walter's is as follows: NOSIGLIA HONDA, Walter Nosiglia, Av Constanera No #29 (Calacoto) Tel (591-2) 794904, email: nossport@ceibo.enteinet.bo, LA PAZ, BOLIVIA.
We returned to La Paz at the end of December, 2000, which is the rainy season. It only rained for a part of each day but when we were on our motorcycle then it rained most of the time. Since there are few paved roads and considering that it was the rainy season we decided not to head directly to Peru but travel along the coast before turning north on the PanAmerican. We had been told that the road was blocked north of Cuzco. We had visited that area before anyway. The day we started it was not yet raining until we reached the city limits. We were getting wiser, knowing the rain would not stop soon, we put on our rain gear. Within a few meters we recognized two old motorcycle friends, Gerd and Ellen Bauer, just entering La Paz from the south. Of course, we stopped and talked with them. With the weather only getting worse we decided to remain in La Paz, stay the night, catch up on the news and find out what the conditions were up north.
Gerd had a great idea. He said that when you want an extension on your moto permit, the place to do it is the airport not at the border. He was right, they gave him six months, not the normal 90 days. As an experiment, I went in and asked for a year. Customs said for that much time I would need a letter from a mechanic. I am sure Walter would have given it to me.
The next day, in the rain, we left La Paz . There is a paved road from La Paz to Arica, Chile. It will be on newer maps. The improved road may only be 5 years old or so. It was not on our old map.
Chile
Once one enters Chile from Bolivia, the road gets much worse, flatter but no rain. There is a newer route being built in Chile that may soon be open, but we kept to the older one. Along this route we were treated to wildlife sightings. Llamas, guanacoes, (some very large black birds with white feathers) and flamingoes. The mountain range would be quite spectacular if we could have seen it. We encountered rain, fog, hail and strong winds. There were even patches of snow along the road side. But once in Chile it was very nice.
At the border, leaving Bolivia, the customs were very efficient and quick. Pay 10BS, stamp the forms and good bye. This was not to be on the Chilean side. We were extremely cold and not feeling patient with ineffective paper workers. First of all with cars lined up two deep and everyone required to go in for identification, it was dinner time for the fellow manning station #1. We waited 40 minutes. Fill out the forms, get in line, wait. Along comes one man who takes people out their vehicles one at a time to inspect the contents. Our turn: what do you have, why are you here? Get back in line. Station two cuts thru line one, cuts back to get to station three. Finally, station four a really pleasant young man stamps everything and smiles good bye. Now, it not only raining it is colder and the fog is moving in. Welcome to Chile. Certainly not like our first entrance months before.
As the altitude changed to more desert like appearance we saw unusual cacti. Referred to as Candelabra with the arms stretched out. It was also warm again. Many Bolivians come to the coast to get warm and see the sun. After La Paz , Arica seemed so very nice. Port cities, such as Marsellis, Manchester, Detroit, are usually hell holes to be avoided, but Arica was a pleasant change We spent New Years there and in addition to the fireworks at midnight, the town lost all power for awhile. It was quite dark except for the other fireworks. (Carry a small flashlight if walking at night.) For the year 2000 we had spent New Years in Ushuaia and now for 2001 in the far north of Chile.
We had been told, by others, that the customs to Peru was closed on Sundays. At this point we were close to needing a new rear tire and so decided to stay over for the weekend. The weather was good and they have a small mall with ice cream stands. Since we can not get good ice cream at home we just relaxed and enjoyed ourselves. Some of the police in Chile ride BMWs. First thing Monday we went looking for a motorcycle policeman. The officer said that we had to order the tires from Santiago, no time for that so headed north to the border crossing.
Just a mile or so before the border crossing there is a police checkpoint where they tell you that you need to have forms for the passengers and if you do not have them you can buy them from the food stands across the way. Of course, not speaking Spanish we had no idea what was said and so had to return after an English speaking customs man at the actual border told us the same thing. This person also said to come to the front of the line when we returned so we would not have to wait. Also, he said he didn't know why we had to have them, just a Peruvian requirement. Very understanding. With this form we were able to leave Chile
PERU
Crossing into Peru took over an hour. Numerous stamps required, plus photo copies of our documents. Instead of telling us we need double copies when we first went to get them they sent us back a second time. After a while these border check points become routine but I always ask for a 12 month permit for the moto just to see what will happen. Here the customs agent said he would give me 12 months if I had a special form. I have no idea what he meant and of course was not smart enough to ask him to write it down in Spanish. We remembered that Peru was the place where the Norwegian chap had his motorcycle confiscated by customs because he had left it there over the permit period. We did get ninety days to keep the moto in Peru.
PERU SOUTH OF LIMA
We headed north to the town of Tenca where we spent the night. The next day we left heading north.
We decided to leave the PanAmerican and head to the coast for some bird watching. About 2 miles off the road the pavement ends and the gravel begins. At that exact point the engine died. When trying to start it again flames burst out from under the gas tank. Not a good sign. This was about the 11th major breakdown in 11 countries with BMWs. But anyway, at least I knew what the problem was. It isn't easy to rewire a BMW with only a flashlight, numerous bugs and lots of help from the curious. But all the nuts, bolts and plates went back into place with nothing left over. Now the electrical system consists of three parts; the original wiring that had not burnt, wiring that had burnt but just needed taping, and wiring that had been completely destroyed and replaced with common wiring from an electric table lamp. After about 6 hours with the help of a local mechanic we were off again. By then it was totally dark.
We arrived in Arequipa at about 11:00 pm. and the town was dead. It is such a dark city we could not read the street signs and no one was about. Finally, we found a hotel that was at least recommended in the guide books and put in for the night. We stayed for a few days where we again met Gerd and Ellen who had travelled by bus, leaving their moto with Walter in La Paz. We left and headed north to the Canyon of the Condors near Chivay. Arequipa is one of those places that one can head north to Cuzco but the road are reportedly bad.
While Chivay is quite a small town it would serve as a nice central point for exploration in several directions if one had a good off road bike. The route is a mixture of paved and dirt to Chivay but dirt upon reaching the town and all the surrounding roads. The dirt portion could have been a real trial for skill if muddy. We were getting rain on the return but it was still easy enough There are not a lot of hotels and even though the one we were in was comfortable, there was no heat. All the heavy wool blankets were welcome that night. The road up to the Canyon of Condors is all dirt. And a bit rougher. The weather had settled into fog and rain. We saw no condors, but maybe next time we will. Later, we were to meet a moto friend who had gone there in April and had seen the Condors. He said they flew quite close to the top of the mountain.
Go to a map of the ROUTE TO CHIVAY (COLCA CANYON)
Back to Arequipa to get warm and hopefully bake off the colds we had at this time. Since we had time we checked out the tire shops as we still had the off road tires need to cross Bolivia but not needed for the PanAmerican. With the help of a cab driver who lead us to these places we were able to get a new rear tire. Pablo had been recommended by the hotel and we were glad to have his help. The next day he directed us to the short cut out of the city.
We then basically followed the Pan American north through Peru. Our route took us into desert again. High sand dunes with nothing much to see but not boring. In the river areas the crops look quite productive, rice even. About two hours north of Camann towards Chapala the river was flooded. It is at the edge of the village and we were told it rose rapidly. How to cross when the water is above the air intake? Easy. Just push it across. Some enterprising young men saw the opportunity to make a bit of money. They were the pushers, about four per side on cars. The moto was a bit different. A police 4X4 crossed, looked over the situation and the officer said, "Misses get into car, you (Eric) ride across on moto." So all of the luggage was off loaded into the 4X4 and the men pushed Eric across. He did have to get off and push too, the current was that strong. On our way again with the road sometimes close to the ocean before turning inland. Very warm.
Next stop was the town of Nasca, to stay in the Hotel Algeria. It is a moto friendly establishment with parking inside the courtyard. We met a Japanese traveller, Dye, and Chris Bright on his BMW. Chris was heading south so after being in touch by emails we were glad to finally meet him and exchange notes since he was also on a world tour. A couple of days later Chris headed inland to Cuzco and sent us email suggesting that this is not a route for a heavy BMW going two up.
Going north we took a short detour to a little town whose name we have forgotten but it is listed in the guidebooks. It has a small lake which we had been informed was worth the stop. We found it was ok to for lunch but expensive to stay overnight. We did not stay. Just north of there we meet Eduardo Holquin on a BMW and three other motorcyclists, all from Columbia. We exchanged notes and they warned us not to go to Columbia due to the civil war.
By evening we entered Lima and continued north along the freeway to the intersection looking for the Hotel Europa where we were to meet our friends Gred and Ellen again. The parking for our motorcycle was not good and at the same time another motorcyclist came out of Hotel Espana and suggested we stay there. Here the hotel was not fancy, in fact, they were doing some upkeep work, but we did have a private shower and were able to park our moto right outside our hotel room door in the lobby. In addition to Christine & Lars from Germany,we met Chris Mathas and Christine from England on their GS. This hotel is close to the main square so walking around was easy. And it is not expensive.
A day later both Mathers and Lars left although going in different directions, Mathers, south on the Pan American and Lars, east before going to Cuzco. We left the next day still going north.
NORTH OF LIMA
Without a good map it took some time to clear the suburbs of Lima. We gassed up in Anon. We looked for the 7 walled ruins near the village of Paramonga, directions we had were not to clear, but the ruins are beyond the village. No point in paying an entrance fee. We drove around on a track and could see it all. After a while, one mud ruin looks like another.
Further on, in another town whose name we have also forgotten, but which we ill provide later, we were stopped three times for speeding, so they said. Paid the first fine and refused the other two times telling them we had already paid. They said ok. That area is notorious for speedtraps. Other vehicles were not being stopped. Be careful.
About 150k north from Lima one can leave the PanAmerican and go into the mountains to reach the city of Huaraz.
Good paved road to the city of Huaraz and then some miles beyond. Going up the mountains it was so foggy we had to ride with visors open so as to see far enough ahead. The right side of the road was worse than the left because they are doing something like putting in a pipeline so our side of the road was either torn up or narrowed to half a lane. The traffic was heavy, many large vehicles drove without lights and in our part of the lane. Extremely cold again. After reaching the top we stopped for gas just as the rain came down hast and hard. This station was the only one we recall that had covered parking while filling. Buttoned up and ready to continue we discovered the front tire had gone flat. We pumped it up using the type one screws into the sparkplug. Luckily, a gommeria was only a kilometer or so down the road. We were a bit dubious about the patch on the tube. The material looked like pvc plastic. Bright blue. Paid 5S the standard charge and were underway again. It held.
After that we reached the town of Huaraz where we stayed for two days, in a recommended B/B, the only guests. It rained hard again just as we reached the hotel. So glad that the moto parking was covered. It was expensive and we would probably choose another place next time, tho it is an easy location to walk to the center of town. Also, we were able to find tubes for the tires and had one installed in the flat rear tire. The Goodyear people were helpful in locating a moto shop with the correct size. It was the local Honda dealer.
The road out of town passes through a pretty valley. At that point the road was good pavement with just enough curves to be interesting. We knew what might be waiting ahead. Turning off the main highway we questioned even then if this was the right way. First, there was a small river crossing, just enough to splash water into the boots. We stopped a pickup to inquire if this was the correct way to Chimpote. The strip of road, although not paved is passable. But there are forty (40) tunnels here so we call it the 40 tunnel road. Several of our friends had recommended it. A raised, big tired pickup, new, stopped us and we were told not to continue as it was very bad, big rocks all over. This road is scenic and very narrow at some points. However, the only problem we had was meeting a large truck in one of the tunnels. It is difficult to turn a large motorcycle around, fully loaded and facing downhill. We were able to pull into the hillside just enough so the truck could go around . It was followed by another vehicle. Continuing on we were impressed by the sheer walls of the canyon. The wind picked up and helped ease the heat. We noticed that the river was running fast and muddy. We did find a village for lunch and had a good trout meal. For about the last 10 miles we were on a track that was narrow and dusty. It wound through farm land. It appears that a new road is under construction above this track. But, we didn't try it as the bank was soft, deep dirt. Other vehicles had used it, we were too hot and tired to consider it. Chris Matthiessen, who has travelled alot in South America said this road is Call El Valle del Pato and starts from Santa, south of Trujillo to the north entrance of Huaraz. A nice deviation from the PanAmerican and everyone takes this route. It was here that Chris Mathers got a rock stuck in his front fender and took a bad spill.
The ride up the coast was through more desert like area of sand with nothing exciting happening until we reached the city of Trujullo. Here there is a very helpful Honda dealer who made a special effort to find a tire for our BMW and it was mounted for us in a shop in the back. 300S plus the standard 5S for mounting it. There name and location is as follows: Importadora Trujillo SRL, Av. America norte 158. After the tire was ready, they escorted us to the neighboring coastal town of Huanchaco where the guide books recommend the hostel by the name of La Cas Suiza at http://come.to/casasuiza but it was full. They do have secured moto parking however if one can get a room. Not being the tourist season yet it is possible to find a other places but a little better also. Since these alternative overlook the ocean, they are more expensive. The room we took over looked the ocean, TV extra, with moto parking in the garage.
It is possible to take the old PanAmerican to Ecuador and not the new route which transverses a desert, not something we are enamored with. Not a very interesting bit through here. Three accidents almost immediately involving multi-vehicles. Lots of buzzards around, wonder if that is a sign. Reached Chiclayo without incident. The next village north has a good museum. We just had difficulty finding it in this small town. The Berning Museum has parking for motos inside the guarded gate, even under cover from the sun. The displays are good and labeled in English. Well worth the hot ride.
On the way to Piura we stopped at a bird sanctuary, after some confusion about the entrance, that we found in a brochure. They want visitors and said that we could camp there if we wanted. It was too early in the day but we do intend to camp there when we return south. This bird sanctuary is located at the Blanco Preserve. They are managing a breeding program for the endangered wild turkey with the white wing feathers. There were other endangered birds on display, small woolly monkey, parrots and some cats native to the area. All had either been taken from people who had them illegally or had been brought in with injuries or illness. Fernando, the one in charge, told us the history of the preserve. As with most such programs money is short but they do get some funding through the beer manufacturer.
This information for this place is as follows: Cracidae Peru, Director: Fernando Pratolongo, Torres Paz No 708 Chicalyo Peru, tele (51-074) 238748, email: cracidae@llampayec.rcp.net.pe. Their website is
www.econewsperu.com/28901.htm
Here is a recent email we received from the reserve.
Reply-To : "Fernando Angulo" <angulo@viabcp.com>
To : "tynda2 Siberia" <tynda@hotmail.com>
Subject : RE: cracudae
Dear Eric and Gail Haws:
Thanks for the interest! I am fernando, who was with you there in olmos.
Our White-winged Guan breeding center, that is also a small zoo, is located
in the 103 km. of the former panamericana Road, in the way from chiclayo to
Piura, 10 km northward from Olmos. is open from monday to saturday and is
free of cost for visitors.
We have a collection of tropical birds, specially cracids (guans, curassows
and related birds), macaws, monkeys and other birds.
If you are returning, you can camp there without problem,
any information that you need please tell me and write to this email,
fernando
Fernando Angulo Pratolongo
°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°
Director del Zoocriadero "Barbara D'Achille"
& Programa de Reintroduccion de la Pava Aliblanca
Asociacion Cracidae Peru
Torres Paz 708 - Chiclayo
Telf (51 - 074) 238748
E-mail: cracidae@llampayec.rcp.net.pe
angulo@viabcp.com
For more information go to the PERU BIRD RESERVE HOMEPAGE
Continue to PART TWO