Next, we crossed into Ecuador which was easy as this route is no longer used by trucks nor most traffic. We can not say that this is a better route than the coast road since we have never taken that road but from what we have heard from others it is. However, they are not maintaining it so one does find frequent hazards such as fallen rocks. There are numerous detours. The old Pan American is in much worse condition than perhaps the new route. Large sections are just slimy mud, rutted by four wheeled vehicles, repair equipment. Crossed running water more than once. Into the mountains again with fog, rain and wind. The terrain has changed to more tropical with palm trees and green everywhere . A bit swampy in places.
Into Loja with no problems. On to Cuanca less than 100 miles but felt like much more with the road conditions. Numerous potholes which required absolute concentration at all times. The traditional dress of the local people is more noticeable. Men with the black pants just below the knees, hats and shawls. The women in the black skirts, shawls and hats. Very attractive people. Houses too have a different appearance. Many are two stories or more with white paint and tile roofs. Things appear more prosperous. About ten miles out from Cuanca the road improves significantly. Clean, no potholes.
Stayed in a hacienda north of Rio Bamba. This morning the ride was good until the pavement ended suddenly and became firm gravel. The scenery was also changing to high hills covered with nearly vertical fields. Have come from green bananas yesterday to carrots today. Interesting sight: Two sheep riding on a bus top rather like they were used to it. There are many areas with replanting occurring. The trees are farmed. The hacienda is expensive but with colds again we really appreciated the roaring fire that the waiter kept going. The tea really hit the spot.
Quito in the Bernard Hotel. This was recommended by another traveler. Good parking for the moto but expensive. We stayed there a day because it was easy to find, it was raining, and close to the embassy. A pharmacy is next door and with the help of the pharmacist we finally have something for the colds. The South American Explorers Club is just a three blocks away. The South American Explorers Club is very helpful, wants to do more for motorcyclists, also has clubs in Lima and Cuzco, and we stored our personal belongings there. They also said they would store our moto for us in their garage but it was not very large.
While we were in Quito we were contacted by a person attempting to get his Harley out of Panama to Quito and had been told it would take $8000US to do so. However, investigation revealed that all that was needed is a form from the consulate, in this case the US, and it was easy enough for any individual to get through customs. But if one does need help then contact Alejandlo Arcos Phone, 281.905 or 957.249 who only charges a nominal fees to assist. He was recommended by an American we met.
We actually arrived in Quito a week earlier than planned with time to spare. After making arrangements for storing the moto and luggage, we spent a week north of the city. While we took some back roads to get there, we had to take the more back roads returning because all the main routes were blocked by protesters. In Olavato, known for its handicrafts, some of the backpackers, tourists actually had to hike into town because the buses and taxis were not allowed within three kilometers. Their next worry was how to be back in Quito for flights home. Some hired taxis to run the barricades by going on back mountain roads. Our hotel owner reported that it took 6 hours. We did the non paved roads as before and arrived back in Quito in a little over two hours. We had only planned to be in Olavato for two nights but it turned out to be three. Due to the protests occurring all over the region many of the markets were closed. This was not something new as it seems to be the only way the local people have any power to express their dissatisfaction with policies of the government, local or national. It really doesn't seem to change things for them.
Our last night in Quito. The local BMW dealer, for cars, agreed to store and do repairs on the moto. Our luggage was stored with the South American Explorers Club. Good folks with plenty of information on roads, routes, conditions of political situations and limited storage for those who want to leave heavy packs or gear while they check out the nearby sights. It is a good idea to have a current membership if traveling in South America. But, if not, they are happy to sign you up on the spot.
We are sending you some additional information we found under separate email for you to include on your website.
Eric and Gail Haws
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