BALTICS

PART THREE

A MOTORCYCLE STORY BY ERIC AND GAIL HAWS

The following summer we returned to Finland as it was our

intention to travel in a clockwise trip into the Baltics,

through northern Europe up Norway to the North Cape.

It would be the

reverse of the trip we took in 1990 when we entered

Russia, including the

Baltics. Now, that the Russians were gone from the Baltic, at

least

officially, it would be interesting to see if any differences were

noticeable.

The trip started well. In Helsinki we took the ferry to

Tallin, Estonia, a ferry similar to the one that the

following

year was to sink with all lost. We arrived in Estonia

about 6 p.m., met an Estonian friend at a restaurant and

left town about 10 pm. In the States we were use to

riding our 9.3 gallon PD, and so about mid-night when we

ran

out of gas it took a few minutes to remember that our GS

only had a 5.4 gallon tank. No one has said that we were

real smart and it is not a good idea to run out of gas on a

dark night in rural Estonia. But we reached a very small

three

house village when to our surprise a Russian came along on

a  bicycle.

We told him we were Americans and about our three trips to

Russia. He was amazed and was even further  amazed that we had run out

of gas. Then an Estonian came along but was of no help.

But the Russian threw his bicycle ten feet into some bushes to

hide it and found another Russian, who was quite drunk, but

had an old auto. One of us stayed behind to guard the GS

while

the other went with the two Russians and one Estonian. We

drove 5 miles to an all-night gas station which amazed us

as

it was not something we expected to find in Estonia.

The Estonian guarding the pumps was surprised

when we didn't have Estonian money since we had

not vet changed. We couldn't believe that he didn't want

American dollars. So the Estonian paid for the gas and

we proceeded to the liquor store where they did want

American

money.   Back at the GS we tanked up while our three

companions did likewise but from a different container.

stork nest(IMAGE OF STORK NEST)

By morning we had reached the western coast and took the

ferry

to two superb Estonian Islands. These islands had changed

little in the last 50 years when the Russians arrived

during

WW II. At one time about 15,000 Swedes lived on these

island but they

all left when the Russians came. Very few Russian

actually

went to the Island, preferring to live in cities. After

the Russia troops had left, it now being 1994, things were

changed. Estonians receive Finnish TV programs ðand knew

that now they are supposed to be making money. But no one

told them to advertise.  They even have bed and breakfast

but  since they don't know about advertising signs finding them

is difficult. One night we knew there was one close but

could not find it. So we relied on a technique that we

had perfected. We found a Russian, who happened to be

quite drunk, and after stumbling down a path showed us

how

to get there.

We continued across Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, and Poland

until we reached the new Republic of Czechoslovakia where we

attended

the FIM rally, two of only eight Americas. We

were only sorry that we did not have more time to spend in

о

the Baltics since all the roads are not paved, the

countries

are basically unexplored and have many old castles,

monuments

and a scenic nature. In fact, on one of the Estonian islands,

we

found an old windmill in a special setting that is the best

we have every seen.

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FOR THE FOURTH PARTY OF THE FOUR PART SERIES

10 Dec 96