ROAD NOTES: La Paz Bolivia to North Argentina
TYNDA here is the report promised:
The road from La Paz to Northern Argentina is becoming more and more popular for two reasons. First, the road from Northern Chile to Santiago can be for some most boring. NW Argentina has many interesting things to see. Second, with the economy so poor in Argentina, one can't beat the prices. It is now much cheaper to travel in Argentina than anywhere else in southern South America. There are about three major roads from La Paz to Northern Argentina. See Frank's (http://motofrank.tripod.com/bolivien ) website for details.
You must be careful in Bolivia, especially La Paz, as we got out just in time according to Frank who sent us this email:
We had a real rebellion here the last week and lots of
public institutions and shops were looted. No fun!
Now we are calm again, but the destruction is
incredible. Also the military shot some people (their
was a fight armed police contra armed military). 9
police dead and 4 militaries -> in total 24 dead and a
hundred injured. Not to understand was the killing of
a nurse thru the hospital window and the shot at a
female doctor, who tried to help on the street under
red cross - it did not work. FRANK
The road from La Paz below is the easiest.
#1. Leaving La Paz, there is gas just beyond the turn to Arica. Then again just before the border crossing with Chile.
#2 Once in Chile, there is of course gas and everything in Arica. Here the place to say is Hotel Lynch. It has secured parking for the moto and is close to the pedestrian mall. There is a patio like landing, in the courtyard, if you stay on the ground floor. About $10.00 for two.
About 100 k south of Arica near the agriculture inspection stop where there are a few eating stalls. Gas is on the right hand side out of barrels at the Banos. No sign, just ask.
#3 Next gas is just south of the turn to Iquique and of course in Iquique.
#4. The route to take South is along the coast from Iquique to Antofagasta. No services and little else. We turned at Tocopilla, east to Calama. No gas along this road, not even at the intersection with the PanAmerican. Gas and money exchange is cheaper in Calama than in San Pedro de Atacama.
#5. In San Pedro, where there is a regular gas station, none is available until approximately 310 k into Argentina at Susques. In Susques is a new and regular gas station 3 k west of Susques. So it is a total of 310 k between gas stations. The road in Chile is fairly new and paved while that in Argentina it is unpaved and somewhat washboard. There are no services, repeat: NO services at the border.
#6. There is what appears to be a new restaurant 2 k west of Susques. At the gas station 3k west of Susques there is a new hotel and restaurant. But the place to stay is Pension LaVicunita, which is downtown, along the divided but unpaved main street. It is somewhat opposite of the old church and between the police station and school. At this time there is no sign but they thought they might have one in the future. Here is an adequate room and showers with secure parking for your moto. They will also furnish dinner and breakfast if requested. The owner's daughter, Mabel, who we met, not the mother, owns the local telephone company, will exchange money, works for customs, and is building a wine bar in the telephone company. She also speaks English and is good friends with the owner of the moto shop in Jujuy. Phone 03887-490207, fax 03887-490229, email atamabel@imagine.com.ar.
#7. (1) There are five must visit places according to Moto Jujuy north of Jujuy. Some we have been to, some not. Starting at the north, near the crossing with Bolivia, the town of Villazon-La Quiaca. About 7 k East is the small town of YAVI (2) then South along Ruta 9 and take the left turn to IRUYA. The turnoff is 25 k North of Humahuaca. (3) next is TILCARA (4) Then the city of PURMAMARCA, (5) There is a small town northeast of Jujuy on a new gravel road.
#8. In Jujuy is a moto shop called Jujuy Motos. There one can get service and tires. The owner is Cesar Puentes, a friend of Mabel in Susques. The shop is located at Av Brown 1098, phone 0388425543, email: jujuymotos@cottepal.com.ar. They will be happy to help you.
#9. There are two roads South from Jujuy. The best is the west one called Camino de Cornisa. It goes past Lake Palmer. On the East side of this lake are several very good restaurants recommended by Jujuy Motos. Also, there is camping and maybe a cheap hostel. The road continues South from the lake to Salta. This road is all paved but narrow. It is the kind of road that truck drivers honk their horns before entering curves. It is a nice road for moto travel and one can see some bird and wildlife but there are trucks on this road so slowness is necessary.
#10. From Salta there are three routes, but the best is the west one that goes though Cafayate. Gas and all services can be found there. One of the cheapest and best places to stay, with secured moto parking, a swimming pool, asado, patio, and basic room, about $3.00 USD is Hotel Colonial. Around the corner, about 3 blocks away is another nice place but we did not visit so know no details. Just south of Cafayate are the hill ruins. Regular gas here.
#11. Going south from Tucuman there are three roads. Do not take the middle one, as there are road blocks with farmers demanding pesos. Give them one if you go this way. But the other and western road is best, that leading to Catamarca and Patquia. There were road blocks here but they were not interested in motos.
#12. At Patquia, get gas and turn West for the two parks. Along the way, about 70 k is a bar/grill with gas out of the barrell in the back. At the intersection between the two parks, about 1k south, there is a windmill on the east side of the road. Sometimes gas is available there from the barrel.
#13. You can visit both parks by moto but at the Parque Nacional Talampaya you must camp overnight and enter the park before the staff reappears. There is a restaurant there. At Parque Provincial Isghigualasto (Valle de la Luna) you can tour on your own, ask at the office for directions. There is a small restaurant here but no gas. Then after you leave Park the next gas (other than maybe gas at the windmill) and supplies will be in the town of Valle Fertil. One of the best places to stay is the Canbanna Las Marias although there are many others.
#14. The next stop is the town of Caucete. A some what unusual place. There is no need to go to San Juan unless you have plenty of time. Gas and food here and a market on the plaza.
#15. Mendoza is next. There the famous campsite is Swiss (El Suizo) located at Av Champagnat. But it is noisy especially on weekends and holidays when the disco next door stays open until 8:00 am. Don't expect to get much sleep unless you have earplugs. Mendoza has a BMW dealer but don't go there unless your moto is still under guarantee. Proceed directly to the mechanic himself. In his shop one will find 20 or so older BMWs in various states of repair. Owner is Carlos Desgens, at J N Lencinas 1148-San Jose, Guaymallen- cp 5519 telefax 54-261 4455471. It is on a dead end street. Other RWT have visited this shop, such as TORSEN & RICARDA and CHRIS & ERIN RATAY have. So have Eric and Gail Haws. All have websites worth visiting.
While we were in Mendoza at the campsite we were honoured to be present when Ricarda was selected as Ms Emfanata for 2003. She is really homeless now, having sold everything when she left Germany, but promises that if you find her when she returns to her home country, that she will fix you emfanatas since she is the expert. We hope to see her there sometime in the next few months when we return to Germany.
The NW part of Argentina has many things to offer and although we have been there twice, we intend to return and see what we have missed.
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