A REPORT TO TYNDA by CHRIS MATTHIESSEN
I did do the S. Pedro to Argentina route. There are two. I did the Paso Jama route some months after I saw you. From San Pedro the first part is paved, but then it turns to dirt. The road is good, and the first part is especially beautiful. Now is a good time to do it as it passes through some very high altitudes and can get very cold. You will find VERY few people along the route.
The easiest way from La Paz to S. Pedro is through the border at Tambo Quemado (very pretty) and then down to Arica. Then follow the coast until the Calama turnoff. It's a lot of desert. You'll be happy just to see a plant again. It does have its beauty though. It just starts to get a little old after a while. Carry plenty of water!! I did the route through the national parks in the northeast of Chile, but there were some difficult spots. I don't know what you're up for. Straight across the top isn't bad. I came out in Camiña and found some tricky spots. Otherwise, if you just go to Arica - it's all paved and perfect. In Bolivia, gas up before detouring to the west. There will be no more gas until Putre or Arica.
I don't know exactly where all you've been, so I don't know what would be backtracking for you. The route through Sud Lipez in southwestern Bolivia is very spectacular, but also very rough. Come to think of it, you will be there during the Bolivian rainy season (December through March) during which it will be impossible. A direct route to Chile is probably your best bet during the next few months, although Bolivia has much to offer.
Have fun, enery. There are some very nice rides that you can take using S. Pedro as a base. You CAN ride to El Tatio (the geyser) and it is a spectacular ride. Also, you may want to take a detour into Bolivia to see Laguna Verde. I did the route from there to Uyuni (shortly before we met). It was one of the most spectacular but also most difficult of my trip and I wouldn't recommend it two up. You can get an idea of the scenery, though, by taking the trip to Laguna Verde, which you can do in a day from San Pedro.
If you have some specific questions feel free to write me. I spent quite a bit of time riding all over that area.
Argentina is nowhere near as bad as it appears on TV and is very affordable now. Take care if you go to Buenos Aires though. It was a little rough when I was there. I think that things have improved though.
(I found San Pedro a little touristy for my taste, but it is worth it for the spectacular One more thing... When I was in San Pedro there was no cash machine and the money exchange is a rip off. Be sure to get some cash in Calama! )
Take care,
Good to hear from you,
Chris
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