Dear Tynda:
Here is the report you requested.
Because Lufthansa now flies to our home state, Oregon, we took advantage of their special introductive rates go to Germany and ride to Greece. Then, after flying back home, we later returned to Europa, going to Finland where we have stored a special motorcycle. We should explain the way we travel. Because of work projects and other reasons we seldom can be on the road for more than 45 days at a time. It is expensive to ship a moto from the USA. At least $1000.00 USD one way and with the hassle of customs it is not interesting, but time consuming, and cuts into our road time. So, we have three BMW GSs, the same, 1991 or 1992, all red. We leave these in various countries and then visit when time permits. Others are now doing the same. In some countries such as Australia or the USA, it is easy to go there, buy a moto and then sell it when the trip is over. Or store it as we do. So at this time of writing we have a moto in Greece, usually left in Germany, and one in South America, this time in Buenos Aires, Argentina. And also a special one long in storage in Finland.
Our motorcycle in Finland is the one we rode across Russia in 1992. Then we rode it to Iceland in 1993. In 1994 we rode it down to the Republic of Czech and back to Finland. Our intent was to head to the Nordkapp. but broke down about 100 k from that northern point. In 1994 the status of this moto was : a broken main frame that had previously separated and been welded in Germany, a motor that was ruined, minor problems that would not have kept us off the road, such as a destroyed shock. We had the moto shipped back to our mechanic in Hameelinna. In the USA the only motor we could find was priced at $3000.00. This for a motorcycle not worth more than $5000.00 to $6000.00??? We said NO! At this time we knew no one in Germany and BMW was not a fan of ours nor we of them. Not only had BMW of Germany refused to help us on our Russian trip but had attempted to sabotage the trip itself. But we were not defeated in our quest for a motor. While travelling in Australia with one of our BMWs we found an engine for $700.00, purchased it and freighted it to Finland. So, finally our Finnish mechanic said everything was ready and we flew there cheaply, this time, to ride our moto that had not been ridden for about 9 years.
Actually, the major reason we flew to Finland was that our friend TIMO, the famous head of security of PennyMart, wanted to ride to the Nordkapp with us but then at the last minute changed his mind, deciding that it was more important to arrest criminals in Germany than to ride his BMW. Was this a wise choice? So like all our other trips we rode alone.
We arrived in Helsinki and took the train to Hameelinna in June. Being lazy we normally outfit each moto separately so that not only do we have no customs problems, but leave all necessities, such as tents and sleeping bags, helmets, jackets, everything with the moto. In this case we refused to buy anymore and searched our store of motorcycle castaways for needed items. Finding old motorcycle jackets, pants, raingear, and other items, we used these and must have looked like vagabonds on a moto. The only thing new were the helmets which are our USA helmets that we did take with us..
With our luck we did not know if this time our trip would be completed. Riding a motorcycle that had not been ridden for almost 10 years into the unknown of northern Europa was bad enough. But a BMW motorcycle was pressing our luck. We have broken down 16 times in about 14 countries. Normally this means breakdowns that require towing. For example, the year before we broke down twice in Spain. Now we were on a moto that not only had proven to be more unreliable than most BMW's, but the motor was completely unknown. How long had it sat in the Australian junkyard? And, it was only a 800cc engine, not the 1000cc which our BMW GS was suppose to have.
Because we are writing this under stress, i.e., we are leaving for Argentina in a few days, we will only hit the highlights of our trip. First, while we like Finland and had been there several times, it is rather flat. But one thing we noted was the gas stations all appeared to be modern with nice restaurants. A good feature when you only know one word of Finnish and that has nothing to do with food. We had purchased a book called "Learn Finish in 4,326 Easy Lessons" but it was easier to buy than do. June is a little early to go to Finland, at least this year, and of course we had only brought our summer clothes. We had them all on.
We do use guide books but you know they are usually written by hippy bus riders. (Between cities they ride a bus, smoke pot, fall asleep, and often can't see 50 feet beyond the bus.) So we were happy to find a gem they missed. Called, Vaskikello, it is on a major crossroad of Highway 4 and Highway 27, just north of Jyvaskyla. It started with the import of one bell and now they not only have tens of bells, but they have imported a bell foundry. It makes for a pleasant stop, especially when raining, as the bells are not limited to just the outside. The resturant is full of them and they all chime at the same time.
It got colder the further north we went. Something we should have learned years ago. Just before we reached the Nordkapp there is a tunnel where one has to pay. Two motorcyclists were ahead of us when we pulled up to the toll booth. We saw them sign with two fingers meaning that they wanted to pay for two. Since they paid by credit card, when finished they pulled over to put away their documents. When it was our turn to pay and the toll man abruptly waved us through. Thinking about it we wondered if there had been a mistake and so we waited for the other two motorcyclists to catch up. Yes, they inadvertently paid for three motos plus one passenger, not only two. But they refused to accept reimbursement. Thanks. When we finally arrived at the Nordkapp it was freezing ( 0 decrees, cel, 32 degrees f). At that toll booth the young lady asked how long we were staying and we said maybe two hours. She waved us through free. This is the type of exchange rate we like.
(PHOTO OF NORWAY OREGON. NOT THE REAL ONE)
Of course, the Nordkapp is not in Finland but Norway, the most expensive country in Europe. And the dollar has lost a lot of power. Last year one USD purchased 110 Euros. This year our American Dollar was worth only 87 to 90c Euros. So Norway was very costly but the scenery was very good. We have travelled many places and seen many things but Norway is the only country that seems to have endless good sights. In places like Australia or Argentina there are many things to see but one has to travel some distance between them. We have decided, in the future, to store our moto in Olso so to have quick access to this wonderful county, expensive as it is. We can tent and eat fish innards to keep the costs down. (Some of us.maybe.)
Towards the end of the Norway trip we finally met an old email friend, Erling Steen. Not only had we exchanged emails but we had mutual friends in South America. It is always nice to meet another world traveller and find out how they had done the harder things differently than we had. He lives in the southern part of Norway and so after leaving Trondheim, we met him about halfway at a rally. Norway, not only having the slowest speed limit in all of Europa, now has the lowest alcoholic level, about .002, which really means no drinking at all and riding. The choice is that everyone gets drunk on Friday and by Sunday hopefully are sober. Or, don't drink. They really should get Monday off.
At this point we started having BMW problems. When we arrived at the rally large amounts of oil were coming out of the rear end leaking over the tire. This was, we were told at the rally by a former BMW mechanic, Hans, a rare problem. Little did anyone know that we had this same problem before when we were travelling across Russia. It appears to be a leaking transmission but the leak actually oils the drive shaft and so we just keep checking and adding oil as needed by the transmission. When we got to Erling's home town he took us to the local BMW dealer who told us that there was little to do until we got to Germany. He said he had never seen this problem before. Erling was very helpful and if you want to meet him send us an email.
Because of the oil problem we decided not to ride through Denmark, but to take the ferry from Sweden to Germany where we were to ride to Hamburg to meet Monika Tiemann who we had met at a rally. We seldom go to rallys and avoid them if possible. But the national BMW rally in the USA was held in Oregon within 100 miles of our home. So, never having been there we decided to go. Two interesting things happened at the rally. First, we met a BMW rider, Dennis R with whom Eric had gone to elementary school. It was an interesting meeting, but like many people Eric meets, Dennis has avoided further contact. But we also met Monika who was riding her motorcycle around the USA, including Alaska.
Monika is a very adventuresome person and has done many interesting things, such as meeting famous country and western signer, Willie Nelson and performers Sigmund and Roy. Anyway, not knowing us as well as Dennis, she wanted to meet us again and so we were guests in her home in Hamburg for an evening during which she took us on a tour the city. Unfortunately, we were only able to stay one day. Anyone going to Hamburg must meet this motorcyclist. How many other women have three motos in her garage? Send us an email and we will forward it to her if you are going to Hamburg.
It was an interesting ride from the ferry to Hamburg and then again from Hamburg to the south of Bremen as we travelled off the autobonn, taking back roads. Next ,we were to meet our friends Anke and Jan Lucas, now joined by PIA, their new baby. As you may recall, babies are quite ugly and not good riders. PIA was an exception, being one out of 100,000 babies that were nice to have around, something like our own daughters. It was an easy ride to get there, a nice baby, and a good visit. Anke and Jan had stayed at our home in Oregon a year ago but they certainly treated us much nicer.
When we left, again taking the backroads down to Remagdan, we met our old friend, Werner Zwick. Werner is not really that old, but we have known him for a long time. He took us to friends who were building a new home. A very fun visit before we all were off to meet again with Brend Tesch and Patricia at their new home, as well as several other motorcyclists.
Off again to Heidelberg where we stored our moto with S. Knopf and stayed in his B&B (http://members.aol.com/knopftours). There we visited and had dinner with Ricarda and Torsten. Ricarda was elected "Ms EMPANADA OF 2002" and Torsten Broszonn is the famous author of the book "SUDLICHES AFRIKA." Travelling in Germany is so comfortable after some South American countries we have ridden in. Paved roads, good food, other motorcyclists and motorcycle related items such as moto B&B's, restaurants, and mechanic shops. Logical people who are living in over crowded conditions, there is still good motorcycle roads if one gets off the autobahn even if no off-road riding.
W e had to leave Germany and our special motorcycle and fly home. We gave a sigh of relief as an undependable BMW motorcycle saw us to the end of our trip. Upon arriving in Oregon we soon flew to Alaska to visit our daughter, watch bears, eagles, and saw a boat catching fire in the harbor. The response time of the Kodiak fire department was such that the boat was completely consumed by the time they arrived. Fortunately, local people kept the boat away from the moored boats.
In August we hosted the famous South American Motorcyclists, Ricardo Rocco from Ecuador, and had a rally on his behalf. Attending were other well know travellers, such as Sue and Grant Johnson (Canada), Kaye and Peter Forwood (Australia), Herbert Roelandt (Belglum) who has been in Russia eleven times, and the Striking Viking, back after his release from the Colombian Rebels. Other motorcyclists from all over the USA attended. One of the highlights of the meeting was fishhead soup made with fish freshly caught in Alaska. Eyeballs were limited.
We welcome all world moto travellers to our 15 acres in Oregon. Stay with us on your trip to the USA.
End of this Journey but not the end of the Road.
Eric and Gail Haws
Tynda@aol.com