Argentina Part One
In March we returned to our South American moto which was stored at Dakar
Motos on North Mitre in Buenos Aires, Argentina. A good place to have
work done and store your moto. We have referred many people there and when
we went to the home of Sandra and Javier, owners of Dakar Motos, we met
several other around the world travellers, including Maarten from Holland
who we will mention later.
We stayed at Hotel Omega, email: hotel omega@arnet.com.ar, a basic hotel
but it has what ever one needs for a short stay. A fan, cable TV, a bed,
and breakfast in your room. Breakfast in the room because there is no
lobby nor dining room. It is basic. There is a restaurant next door where
one can meet and talk with people. So, for $10 USD the room is a bargain.
They do not have moto parking but one-half block away there is a friendly
garage, gated at night, with supervision. Hotel Omega, situated between
Santa Fe and Cordoba, is in a convenient location. Within about 10
blocks there is a BMW shop, Cordasco Motoaus, at J.A. Cabrera 3698. This
was good for us as the the battery on the moto was completely dead even
though Javier had charged it. What was not great was the price of a new
BMW battery. We chose Hotel Omega because we were bringing medical
supplies to a couple who were living nearby at the time. Hotle Omega
Address: Paraguay 2991.
The real reason that we came back to BA was because our friend Gabriel
invited us to the christening of his second son, nicely named "ERIC". After
the christening, there was a small party where we met Simon Milford, again,
who is traveling around the world. We first met him at Brend Tesh's before
he started his journey, about five years ago. From the party Gabriel's
family, friends, and we two went to a biker's bar called "Costello's" which
we assume was named after Abbott and Costello, two famous American comics.
But the picture on the sign was that of Oliver Hardy, another American fat
comedian, but after a few beers, who cares. Then off to a midnight asado.
A typical Argentine schedule.
After those four days in BA we left for Uruguay by ferry. Before boarding
they did check our papers for the moto, which this time we had. The trip
takes about one and half hours and costs about 60 pesos per person and about
70 for the moto.
URUGUAY Part Two.
We have been in Uruguay three times. The first time we had ridden from BA
up to the bridge north into Uruguay. Then headed north to Brazil. Can't
remember too much about the border crossings except they did check our moto
documents upon leaving Argentina. Entering Brazil, now on a dirt road,
they were not too interested in any documents. They didn't ask if we had a
visa and we didn't. On our second trip to Uruguay, we had been in
Brazil and entered Uruguay at the Yaguaro/Rio Branco crossing further
inland from Chuy, the main crossing between the two countries. These towns
are your typical, not very attractive, places but the border crossing was so
easy, that we can not remember much about it either, except that it was a
one stop service south of town. We did not have any paperwork for Brazil but
no one cared. When one enters Uruguay one automatically gets a one year
permit for the moto.
This second time, as we headed south, we had a flat tire which put us behind
schedule into the darkness. That night we stayed in a hotel, without a
sign, in the village of Vergara, it is one-half block from the police
station. Vergara is northeast of Trenta y Tres. It was so late and we
were tired we would have taken anything but this small place had a bed, hot
shower, a courtyard for the moto and even cable TV. Later, because we had
three patches on our tire and one on the tube, we took the ferry from
Montevideo to BA, Argentina. The customs were not interested in the
Uruguayan paperwork upon leaving nor arriving in BA. In BA we were given an
8 months permit for the moto. They did not stamp the passport for the
moto. More details of our first major trip to Brazil is on our website at:
users.rio.com/~tynda.
So now on our third trip to Uruguay we took the ferry from BA to Colonia Del
Sacramento. After the hustle and bustle of BA, the fast traffic, the
potential for crime, the late night activities, Colonia was quite laid back.
When the Argentine economy was booming, this was where all the Argentines
came by ferry for a day. Now only more well-to-do ones come.
This town actually has three visitor's centers, one at the port and two in
town. The port facility was geared for tourists. Change money, tourist
info and permits, all in one building. In the town we visited two that were
actually open. At the one on the main street, we saw a poster announcing
that on the 10th of March, in the town of Tacuaremo, there was to be a
Gaucho festival. Being flexible, never having solid plans, we decide to
skip going to Montevideo, as we had been there before and had not been too
impressed. We stayed in Colonia a couple of nights before continuing.
This is a nice town in which to relax and there is a campsite just outside
of town. Also, a closed, ruined bull ring. There are other sites within
walking distance of the center to also see. It was here in Colonia that we
met a professor of German from Iceland. It was nice to briefly talk about
Icelandic Sagas. If you have not read them, reading them will open up a
whole new world.
The route between Colonia and Montevideo is a four lane highway, or will be
shortly. Not much of interest on that route. But we had heard of N.
Helvicia, supposedly a Swiss settlement, along the way. Some travellers
have recommended this village but we, as most of the people we have talked
to, say that it is not a place to linger. Just a place for a break.
Onward then to San Jose, turning north to Trinidad. Just before Trinidad
there is an interesting monument. East of Trinidad, towards Durazno, there
is a pleasant park. Not much otherwise that we saw in Durazon, but just
north of town we had a flat tire and found, just after crossing the bridge,
back in town, the laughing gomeria. He laughed all the time while fixing
our flat. He was having a much better time than we and got paid for it.
Farther north, the town of Paso de los Toros has a nice campsite under the
large bridge. There is a water view. Our goal, the city of Tacuarembo, was
still farther. So we took a short break and continued on.
The map of Tacuarembo is very odd, as the streets are all indicated but only
three are indicated with names. Here a place to stay was difficult to find
as the festival is well known and had created a shortage of rooms. We were
lucky to find a room, about four blocks from Hotel Central. The owner, an
elderly woman is named, we think, Amanda Gonfolz Clicja, at Flores 382.
(Very difficult to read her writing!) It is a private home with a garage, tv
and small courtyard. If you chose to stay in a hotel, then Hotel Central at
Gral Flores 300 has secured parking and welcomes those on a moto.
The festival is held every year about the same time and so if you are going
to Uruguay, this is an interesting stop. Be certain to see the Gaucho
museum at Gral Artigas y Gral Flores.
After the three days of Gaucho festival, we traveled on toward Rivera,
where along the way there are some interesting landscapes to see. Also, a
toll road.
We entered Rivera on Sunday, without a map but finally found the customs
where again there was a joint customs office. This is the first customs
office we have been in that had people to offer assistance. They directed
us to appropriate windows, told us how to find the next office, drawing a
little map to be sure we understood. But, for the moto we had to go to the
Brazilian Federal Building and since we are US citizens, make another stop
at the police station to have our fingerprints and photos taken. Due to
the difficulties with the forms, we think we may have been the first
Americans to use this crossing since implementation of the new procedures.
The police, or more correctly, the policeman, since there was only one on
duty, was very friendly. As we left he gave us his name and phone number
in case we had problems. Anyway, the town of Rivera and the Brazilian town
of Santana do Livramento are some of the nicer border crossing towns. It
would maybe have been quicker if it had not been Sunday.
Eric and Gail Haws, Eugene Oregon
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