THE BEAUTY AND THE BEAST--A BMW. PART ONE A GREEK TRAGEDY

Those who know us know that we keep three motorcycles in foreign countries.

In part because

our BMWs are 1991-2s, are worth only about $5000.00 each, and shipping them

back and forth to our home would cost at least $1000 one way, we don't ship

them. The customs hassle and the hassle of putting them in crates,

plus, draining the gas and taking out batteries is not worth it.

Also, we keep everything needed with the motorcycle such as all riding gear,

helmets, gloves, yes everything. Usually, we leave the motorcycle with a

mechanic and the riding gear stored at a hotel or with friends. We have

never had a problem with this.

On our last trip to Europe we rode our old BMW 1991 GS from Germany, to

France, Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, Southern Italy, to Corfu and then to

Athens. We left our moto there and returned in May 2004.

When we arrived in Athens, we found that the motorcycle had been repaired

and the leaking oil cooler was now ok, our belief that it had a leak was

incorrect, it was just a gasket. But when we reached the hotel where they

were storing our luggage we found that much of it had been stolen. Don't

stay at Hotel Cybel in Athens. Our helmets were gone along with riding

pants and other necessary gear, such as rain wear. We had to upgrade with

new items, which are available tho expensive in Athens. Also, the few days

we had in Athens were spent finding these items, not sightseeing, assuming

there is anything to see in Athens.

Now is not the time to go to Athens, as they are getting ready for the

Olympics and everything is under construction. Add to that taxis which are

very difficult to stop, if one can find them, not all are honest, so

transportation will be a problem. August will be very hot and everything

will be about 5 times more expensive than normal. Athens will be full of

tourists, while all the locals leave for the islands.

In order to save expenses, after this setback, we thought it wasn't

necessary to have rain gear in sunny Greece, but since we were going to

Turkey where it might rain in the highlands, we reluctantly purchased some.

You know the rule, if you have the raingear you will not need them, if

not, yes. If you stop and put them on it stops raining. So why bother in

hot weather.

After a few days of shopping, seeing friends, going to the police to report

the theft, finding a new hotel, and other diversions we left Athens for a

day long ride to Thessaloniki where we were to meet another friend. We did

something that normally we do not do and that was to take the freeway.

Boring but fast, it must be a EU project. This new freeway is being built

from Athens to the border with Turkey.

After two days in Thessaloniki, where again there is much construction, as

some of the games are going to be held there and the museums are closed for

construction as well, we left. About 20k from town it started to sprinkle

and then really rain. Before getting completely wet we spied a new gas

station, not yet open where we took shelter. As the rain let up it was

back onto the road to find that we had reached another portion of the new

freeway where there were no exits. The rain picked up and this time we

sought shelter under an overpass to put on our new rain gear, still tightly

packed in their container. Once removed you can never get it back in. At

last, still in the rain, an exit, where we stopped for lunch. It seemed to

be a place that few tourists ever visited, or at least lived to tell about

it.

The rain slowed us down so it was another day before we reached the border.

In the old days all paperwork was processed by hand. But the Greeks, now

part of the EU, have computers. Who would know the old ways? Not the

Greeks of today. The computers had gone down so we had to wait for two to

three hours for them to get the computers working again.

Then on to Turkey where they did not want to let us in, where the oil leak

resumed, where they have radar, where the rotor stopped working, where the

drive shaft developed a problem and where the Kongas have fangs like pumas.

But that is Part Two, a report later about Turkey.

BORDER CROSSINGS and GREEN CARDS

No real problem with leaving Greece if the computers are working. We left

by the southern exit and so decided to reenter the northern way. Well, the

northern entrance is seldom used and it is quick They still have a

computer but few services. We were told at the southern border that if we

wanted a Green Card for Greece when we returned it would cost about 90 Euros

for 15 days. We had tried to get a green card in Greece but were told

that they no longer issued such for motorcycles with non-EU plates, so we

travelled without one. When we reentered no one at the northern border

cared about the moto and certainly not a green card and there appeared to be

no place to buy one anyway. Fortunately, we were never stopped by the

police in Greece.

FREEWAYS

Greece, or most probably the EU, is building a new freeway from Athens to

both entry points with Turkey. It is not yet completed, but where it is

there are new gas stations with full facilities such as restaurants and

stores. Just like in Finland. Motorcycles have to pay at the toll booths,

but normally they just wave one through without having to pay. Watch the

toll worker to see what they want. When one gets close to Athens, money is

expected.

WEATHER

Greece is of course very sunny, except when we are there. This time early

May and until late June. On our return trip from Turkey, we took the

northern route which is off the freeway and is an area where few tourists

venture. Mainly the cities of Komoyini, Xanthi, Drama and Serres. Turning

south, just north of Thessaloniki the clouds darkened and it began to

sprinkle. We pulled in at a service station and took shelter from the

oncoming heavy rain. The next day, this time 100k south of Thessaloniki,

on the freeway towards Athens, it began to sprinkle and as we stopped at

one of the modern gas stations it started to poured down. Heavy rain,

strong wind, an unpleasant situation for motorcycles. The wind was so

violent that it bent metal flag poles to the ground. Soon two foot high

water covered part of the freeway. But we were comfortable inside and

after three hours we resumed the remaining six hour ride to Athens. So be

certain to take raingear to sunny Greece. One observer stated that such

heavy downpours happened only every 20 years. So maybe you don't have to

worry until 2024.

MOTORCYCLE STORES

There are many motorcycle stores in Greece. But in Athens we were not able

to find summer weight pants. We were able to find flip-up helmets. More

expensive than in Germany. But upon our return, the second stay in

Athens before we flew home, we visited the famous Flea Market which is

downtown. There we found many shops and stalls selling all kinds of

motorcycle gear and parts much less expensive than sold in motorcycle

stores. Go there first to find what they have. See if you can find our

stolen gear.

Since our helmets were stolen so was our communications system. But at the

motorcycle store where we purchased the helmets they told us about a new

system and sent us to the store. This is a French system. It is simply

two tubes that goes from an ear to a speaker and visa versus. It comes

with special wax which is softened and molded to fit the ear. Just a hollow

tube and after using it we thought that we could make such a simple system

ourselves. All one needs is a hollow tube with a mouthpiece (microphone)

on one end and ear piece on the other. Children use a string and two tin

cans. Motorcycles can use a simple aquarium hose to do the same and save

several hundred dollars.

On this trip, our second in Greece, from Athens to Turkey and back but by

different routes, we put on 1258 miles. We had rotor problems in Turkey

and in a small city found a used one. About 100k from Athens the charging

system quit working again so we disconnected the highlight making it back to

Athens. This was on a Friday and motorcycle shops are closed on weekends.

When we tried on Monday to start the moto, to go to the motorcycle shop,

the battery was dead. A call to our insurance company, ADAC, and three

hours later a tow truck appears. It is better to be at a hotel than

standing along side the road where everyone that stops or doesn't says "get

a Honda." Why hadn't they told us this years ago? Of course, in our

country it is not possible to buy a African Twin, a TransAlp, nor other

good dual purpose motos from other companies. So we had to buy a BMW. We

could have gotten better miles out of our lawn mower. In fact, there is a

movie of a man riding a lawn mower about 1000 miles and he made it. If the

movie had been a tragedy, he would have been riding a BMW.

We have broken down now about 20 times in 15 countries on our BMW's. On

this trip twice in Turkey plus the oil leak, and then electrical problem in

Greece. We received no speeding tickets in Greece and were told that up to

140 k per hour was ok. We did get $100.00 plus radar ticket in Turkey.

We did not get bit by a dog but just recently ran over one in Brazil,

hurting neither it nor us as we did not go down. Usually we lose weight on

these trips but the bread was so good in Turkey we gained 5 lbs. We did

not make as many friends as in Brazil, but certainly more than "One-Ball"

Maartin from Holland did when he was there.

Coming back from Turkey we did see a strange sight. A three wheel scooter

that had been colorfully painted and enclosed driving down the side of the

highway. It was one of those things that when you saw it you knew that you

were seeing history in the making. It pulled off on to a secondary road

and we followed, stopped it and introduced ourselves. This scooter was

being driving by a handicapped dwarf who spoke more English than we did

Greek. One to zero. We both had very interesting stories to tell. Just

couldn't tell them to each other.

So our trip to Greece has ending until we return. We did take about four

hours of video of Greece and Turkey which we hope to bore you with when you

come and visit us in Oregon.

Eric and Gail Haws for Tynda

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