I ride my KLR650 on the long sections out here in Southern Africa where I
live at about 140kph max cruise on the flat as indicated on the gps (ie
close to real speed, not clock). (Altitude between 20 and 4000 feet above
sea level). This is about 85mph. At that speed it has been happy and
faithful in long service.
For the type of adventure bike touring we do here, much of it to the
far-flung corners of South Africa, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Zambia
where facilities are rudimentary and fuel is often bought from roadside
vendors in plastic five gallon cans we have to be very self sufficient in
terms of what we carry. I made myself two aluminium panniers with a nominal
internal capacity of 5 gallons each (a steel 5gallon jerry can fits snugly
inside each one to give an idea of dimensions. I lined each pannier with
closed cell foam 5/8" thick top sides and bottom. The lid clips onto the top
with two quick release catches (lockable) and seals watertight with a
neoprene C-seal on the top lip of the pannier box. If I find a place which
sells ice the pannier can make a 48-hour icebox for a couple of beers.
Carry a soft bag and some fine cargo net to tie the contents on top while
the beers are chilling. The panniers are mounted onto a frame I made that
covers the rear half of the seat to make a flat carrier, with a stiffening
tube wrapping around the rear near the number plate from one side to the
other. This tube makes a good handgrip to push the bike through deep mud as
it is just the right height to get a good grip. The lower part of the
carrier frame fits into the rear foot-peg mounts (remove the pegs first!) to
provide a triangulated load bearing brace to prevent the rear sub-frame from
cracking. At the foot-pegs I have rubber-damped the frame to prevent
transmission of vibration that could cause cracking. Also rubber-isolated
with thick washers at the top where the frame mounts into the four screw
holes for the original small carrier,
The bike has got a 32 litre plastic tank (about 7gallons I think) which
gives a decent range. The rear footbrake on some of the later KLR's is
mounted onto a cast aluminium bracket that snaps easily if one falls on that
side, leaving you minus rear brakes. Either buy or fabricate the mount from
mild steel which will bend rather under the same impact and can be easily
straightened.
KLR's don't have a kick-start, and trying to push-start one on a flat sandy
road aint gonna work if the battery goes flat. And believe me it will happen
to you sometime when you least need it. To get around this I made a
permanent connection to the battery ending in a Donaldson type plug fitted
to the pannier frame. I carry a small set of jumper cables with crocodile
clips on the outer end and the Donaldson plug (male) fitting on the other.
Cable tie them to the frame so as to maximize storage space. I also have a
single fluorescent tube light with a longish lead that plugs into the same.
For camping in the bush or doing something in the dark it is very handy and
gives an added source of good light to a head torch.
On the side stand, and double stand if you have one, ensure that the foot
is big enough not to sink into soft sand or mud. Bolt or weld a piece of
flat-bar cut to appropriate size onto the foot.
On the fuel line, after the tank tap I have a tee piece inserted with a
short "tail" about 6 inches long, blocked with an 8mm bolt screwed into the
line, and tucked away out of sight. If a buddy runs out of fuel this is the
easiest way to get juice out of the tank.
Fit enduro style (with metal internal reinforcement) hand-guards to the
handlebars to protect your levers and hands. The floppy plastic things that
come with the bike are useless.
The KLR front fork springs are a bit on the soft side for touring with a
load, so I fitted Larry Roessler springs available on mail order on
www.dual-star.com <http://www.dual-star.com/> website which made a big
difference. The rear shock spring is also a bit soft for loaded touring, and
I found that a Yamaha XT 660 spring fitted perfectly, but was about 20%
stiffer. Worth trying too. Otherwise for you guys in the States look around
on the various websites for spring options (mostly too expensive for our
weak local currency) I also changed the rear canister for an AirAge pipe
that freed up the motor to make more power right thru the range, and it runs
cooler to boot which was a bonus.
Drinking water is carried in a small 5 litre (1gallon) jerry-can fitted
into a bracket on the left pannier. Use a Camelbak Mule hydration backpack
or similar to drink from while riding and carry your camera, wallet etc.
This combo has taken me on numerous trips around our neck of the woods
quite happily. Last thing, fit a knobbly type touring tyre front and back -
you can never have too much grip, especially in the front surprisingly
enough!
Hope some of this helps.
Cheers time being
Joe