maarten@maartensworld.com> Subject: Back in Bolivia> > So... It was cold crossing over the Andes. Arriving in Salta it got a> bit warmer, but still... it was chilly at night and I just don´t enjoy> "chilly". Especially considering the fact that I have been living in a> country where it was at least 35 degrees Celsius every single day.> So, after a few days next to the, now empty, large swimming pool of> Salta (Argentina) I decided it was time to go a bit more to the north.> > It was not just the temperature, remember I also still had to carry 60> kilos of luggage around and that is just not much fun. It does not> even fit into my tent (unless I myself sleep outside).> Since I had a contact in Samaipata, Bolivia... and since this tiny> little town was on my list of "possible new homes".. and since it is a> lot warmer there... I decided to go north.> I figured a two-day ride would do the trick.> > Of course just after I arranged all that... I received a email from> Martina (who now lives in Cafayate, also on my little list) with> directions to her place.... which was 200 km to the south.> But, due to temperature, luggage and position on my list, I stuck with> my first plan. Cafayate and Martina will have to wait a few week,> which I am sure they both don´t really mind.> > So, the next morning I loaded the pile of stuff on top of poor Pam and> rode of towards the north.> The Border was further then I had thought (I don´t have a map, so I> have to trust my memory which is not to good) but it was a nice ride.> The north of Argentina is charming.> The border town of Yaicuba (I think that is what it is called) was> less charming. Finding the border, without any form of signposts, was> not easy... but being the smart traveler I am, I asked and got the> right directions.> > Entering a small, but very busy, road I notice a sign that seemed to> say: "No contraband allowed"... or something like that. Well, that> made sense, no contraband near the border... but then again, if that> stuff is not near the border, it is no contraband.... just stuff.> The little road was to busy to be puzzled for to long. It seemed to be> filled with people and contraband... but then again, what are rules> for?> > Exiting the small street I was pulled over by two friendly man who, as> I figured, were going to tell me where the border-facilities were...> But they were not.> Instead they told me: "No contraband"... Well, yes I know that, but> what does that have to do with me?> It turns out that the sign which I mistakenly had understood to say> "No contraband" in fact had stated: "No motor vehicles". I still am> not sure which word it was... but they were serious about it.> After a short discussion in which I explained to them that there was a> thing called: "traffic signs" and that they were designed to explain> to everybody what they meant.. and therefor they all had the same> form, color and layout, they told me not to worry and to proceed to> the border.> I guess I am still to much used to the Thai police who is not> interested in the color of the traffic-sign, but only in the color of> your money. Here things work differently which is a lot nicer for your> mood and your wallet.> > Crossing the border was easy. I was momentarily stunned by the> question if I had insurance. In Bolivia ??? But I just lied and said I> had, pointing at the Dutch bike-registration-papers. It´s so good no> one is able to read Dutch.> > Someone had told me the road to Santa Cruz was paved all the way.> Things have improved over the last few years. It was just to bad I> could not find that road at first.> But, after some searching and asking (asking really helps) I was> finally on the right, yes paved, road.> > Unfortunately it had become a bit late by now and I was somewhat> concerned I would not make it to Buyuibe, in which I knew I nice> hotel. Instead I searched a small town from which I can not remember> the name (told you my memory was bad) and after the fifth or sixth> attempt I found a affordable hotel (6 euros, a stiff price in> Bolivia).> > The next day I continued my journey north until I reached Santa Cruz.> It was a ride through memory-lane. I recognized the bridge which had> been blocked during my first day in Bolivia. What better way to get> used to local culture then a blockade?> I saw the restaurant in which I had eaten to wait out the blockade,> which had lasted only one hour, I had not even finished my food.> > The police stopped me frequently. Not because I did something wrong,> just so they could have a chat, look at my space-ship (that is how> they see my bike) and explain to me which way I have to go (which was> always obvious since there was only one road). I enjoyed it. Friendly> people that enjoy a friendly chat. No hurry, no stress. This is South> America.> > Apart from the tarmac-roads, one more thing had changed since my last> visit in Bolivia. Motorcycles are exempted from paying road-tax or> toll. Not knowing this led to much confusion at toll or tax-houses. I> always stopped prepared to pay a few bolivianos (10 B = 1 Euro) but> they never wanted my money and waved me trough.> Now, you don´t stop a lion and ask him why he does not eat you. Your> just happy he doesn´t. The same goes with road-tax, but still... dumb> as I am I decided to ask.> Instead of saying: "Ohh, you have not paid yet?... well, that will be> 569 bolivianos"... the guy in the toll-booth told me I did not have to> pay. Nunka (which means never).> > Very confusing when a few hours later, slowly passing a toll-booth,> still expecting I had understood wrong, a rather fat lady stretched> out her hand with a toll-ticket....> She must have seen the questions in my eyes and just when I wanted to> stop and get out my wallet, she retracted her arm, started laughing> loudly and waved me trough. Humor. Again something I had missed for> almost two years in Thailand.> Smiling to myself (and the fat lady) I continued. This country felt right.> > Two more hour and I arrived at my destination. The dusty little town> of Samaipata in one of the valleys of the foothills of the Andes. At> 1600 meter it is always spring or summer here... even though now> technically it is winter.> The hostel I had in mind was full, but Andres, the Dutch owner, found> me a spot in his Attic for the night, instead of sending me away.> When I wanted to pay him the next day he looked at me and told me he> could not charge me for sleeping in the Attic.. I liked the town> already.> > Wandering around I came across several nice people and one of them> offered me a small house. I could rent it by the month for the price> of 46 euros. They needed to fix it up a bit, put in a kitchen and a> fireplace (as my suggestion) and even told me I would only have to> start paying rent when that work would be finished.> So now I live in a small room, while the other room is being> renovated, and I am enjoying the small-town life, the friendly people> and the mild winter (20 degrees).> > I have even started to work as a guide and web-site designer. The pay> is low, but then again, so is the cost of life. If I work 5 days a> month I can live from it. And being a guide in one of the worlds> versatile nature-areas is hardly punishment.> > Now all I have to do is wait for Tip to join me. She is still in> Thailand for the transfer of our old house.> > Don Maarten> > > - www.maartensworld.com -=